This week’s sandwich — which, as I already confessed, I ate last week — came to me on a tip from a reader like you.
Well, he’s not exactly like you, since we’re all unique and everything. But he is also a reader, and presumably if you’re here, you are as well. The particular reader in question, Mark, writes an excellent (albeit infrequently updated) Giants blog called Bluenatic that you should probably check out.
Mark discovered this sandwich near his workplace and tipped me off via email. You can and should do the same, either by sending a note to tberg@sny.tv or by using the contact form in the tab to the above right. Especially — especially — if you know of a sandwich as good as this one that is reasonably accessible from Midtown Manhattan or Westchester. This region has no shortage of great sandwiches and so, in theory, it shouldn’t be too hard to find a new sandwich to write up every week. But I am limited in scope by my own web-browsing and traveling habits, so I invite you to shake up my whole sandwich paradigm.
The sandwich: Grilled Pork Banh Mi from the Chicken House on 36th street between 7th and 8th in Manhattan.
The construction: A hot, crusty baguette with pork, mayo, sriracha sauce and a bevy of vegetables and herbs that I was too hungry to entirely sort through. Carrots and lettuce were visible, and I’m sure I tasted cilantro and basil.
Important background information: Chicken House isn’t much to look at. It’s a narrow takeout fried-chicken joint with a half-counter and maybe four or five bar stools for the eat-in set. In the 10 minutes I spent waiting on the banh mi, no one else that came in ordered a sandwich. On this particular day, at least, nearly all Chicken House’s business was in fried chicken and fish.
But I could tell from the care that the man at the counter put into my sandwich that it was going to be good. I couldn’t even see all of what he was doing back there, but the concentration on his face and deliberateness with which he piled on the ingredients boded well for the product.
Maybe my own deli experience gave me a radar for fellow great sandwich creators, or maybe we, the sandwich heroes, have some sort of unspoken cosmic connection and he could see in my eyes how badly I wanted a carefully constructed and delicious sandwich. Either way, this was a sandwich made with love — the love of sandwiches. I shouldn’t stereotype, but that type of passion wasn’t entirely what I expected from a quick-serve takeout fried-chicken place in Midtown (not that there’s anything wrong with takeout fried-chicken).
What it looks like (inside wax paper and a plastic bag):
How it tastes: If you read this site with any regularity, you know me well enough to know I don’t liberally throw around the term “party in my mouth.” Actually, I searched this site for “party in my mouth” and found that I’ve only used it once before in all my sandwich-reviewing — in a remarkably similar construction, and also referring to a Vietnamese sandwich.
Truth is, there is some flavor — a combination of flavors, I think — unique to Southeast Asian cuisine that I can’t entirely put my finger on except to say that it’s amazing. I’m pretty sure it has something to do with the basil combined with chili, but there’s something else in there too. I’ve noticed it in Thai, Vietnamese and Cambodian foods now. Has anyone ever had Laotian cuisine? Is it also awesome?
Anyway, this sandwich had that flavor, and it’s still good. Sorry I can’t be more specific. Also, the array of vegetables added some crunch, and bread was excellent. Warm, tasty, crusty, plentiful. Real good foundation for a sandwich.
My only quibble with this pork banh mi, though — and the only thing keeping it out of the Sandwich Hall of Fame — was that there wasn’t quite enough meat. The pork that was on there was moist and delicious — it definitely tasted char-grilled (though I have no idea what the mechanics of that would be in such a small indoor space). But I like a lot of meat, and this sandwich was mostly bread and vegetables. Delicious bread and vegetables, mind you, but I need protein to power my inactive lifestyle.
What it’s worth: That’s the other thing! This sandwich — which was huge, even without a lot of meat — cost only $6. That’s a great deal for anywhere, but for Midtown it’s damn-near insane. Granted, it also cost me one subway trip on my Metrocard, but that’s only because I was too hungry to walk there.
The rating: 89 out of 100. As close to the Hall of Fame as you can be without getting in. And I’m tempted to try it again in case the short amount of meat was a one-time hiccup.
