Sandwich of the Week

The thing about making pulled pork, it turns out, is that then you have an absolute ton of pulled pork you get to eat. That’s a good thing, no doubt, but it requires a pretty serious commitment to pork-eating. You don’t want any of that pork going bad — especially not after you labored over it for 13 hours or whatever — so you’re going to have to come up with a bunch of ways to prepare it: pork tacos, pork and eggs, creamed pulled pork on toast, pork chili.

None are better than the O.G. pulled pork sandwich, though. I had this for five consecutive non-breakfast meals.

The sandwich: Pulled pork sandwich from the TedQuarters kitchen.

The construction: Smoked pulled pork on potato bun with sliced pickle, barbecue sauce and cole slaw.

For the buns I used Martin’s hamburger buns, a good, consistently soft potato bun. The sliced pickle and cole slaw were store bought. The sauce is something I sort-of made. It’s what barbecue guru Steve Raichlen calls a “doctor sauce,” made by combining other barbecue sauces then adding honey, vinegar, apple juice and spices. The recipe is here. I recognize it’s not a traditional Carolina-style barbecue sauce that would typically top this sandwich, but I had some left over from an earlier barbecue project and thought it was pretty delicious.

Important background information: I fear that sandwiches are never quite as good when you make them yourself as when someone else makes them for you, even if you are — like me — unbelievable at making sandwiches. Still delicious, mind you, but I think there’s something deep inside our minds that knows the sandwich is a significantly less convenient meal if we’ve had to construct it from its elements, which in turn makes us appreciate the sandwich ever-so-slightly less.

What it looks like:

How it tastes: Good. The pork is outstanding; really caught a lot of the smoke flavor without being overwhelming, and the cut of pork itself turned out to be moist (read: fatty) throughout. The crusty outside parts add nice spice from the rub and some variance to the texture. Real delicious stuff we’re talking here. I mean, it’s pulled pork.

But despite that, and despite tasty and fresh ingredients throughout, I never managed to make a Hall of Fame sandwich in the five pulled-pork sandwiches I endeavored. Maybe if I were preparing them for guests I would have gone a little further to make sure the pork was warm, the barbecue sauce was room temperature and the pickle was crunchy, but at home, negotiating all the ingredients from my refrigerator, I don’t know. I guess I knew the sandwich was going to be awesome if I just piled on the right proportions of each ingredient — and don’t get me wrong, it was awesome — but I never took the type of care I should have to maximize its sandwich potential.

I think the pickle was at least part of the problem. I used sandwich-stacker pickles that had been sitting in my fridge for months, so they were never really crunchy. Plus I think I would have been better off with a couple slices of bread and butter pickles or something, which offer more skin, more surface area, and so, more crunch. The cole slaw — which was good, but unexceptional, just cole slaw — adds some crunch, but the pork is so soft that it’d be nice to have it bookended by crunchy things, and the pickle didn’t pull its weight. Plus it sogged up the bun with pickle juice. Delicious, delicious pickle juice.

The bun was really good though. So was the barbecue sauce. Honestly, if you’re bored, try that recipe. It’s easy to make and spicier than most barbecue sauces (depending on what rub you use, I suppose), plus adding all that vinegar really gives it some tang.

What it’s worth: The pork wasn’t all that cheap and there was a lot of labor involved here, but the pork butt yielded so much meat that the total cost of this sandwich, to me, was probably less than $3. Pretty amazing when you think about it. All you need to do is spend 13 hours smoking a pork butt and commit yourself to only eating pork for a week.

How it rates: 80 out of 100. A tantalizing sandwich with the potential to be an all-time great, but sidetracked by poor work ethic and unable to maximize its talents. There are a ton of baseball players like that, but not many I can find from North Carolina. So I’ll call this the Otis Nixon of Sandwiches, even though Otis Nixon is probably not an 80, but mostly because I’ve always wanted to create “the Otis Nixon of Sandwiches.”

The O.G. Earl of Sandwich

Starch grains found on 30,000-year-old grinding stones suggest that prehistoric man may have dined on an early form of flat bread, contrary to his popular image as primarily a meat-eater.

The findings, published in the Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences (PNAS) journal on Monday, indicate that Palaeolithic Europeans ground down plant roots similar to potatoes to make flour, which was later whisked into dough.

Reuters.

Of course he did. Of course he did. C’mon. And though it’s not stated in the article, I can personally guarantee you that, with enough digging, archaeologists will uncover evidence that prehistoric man wrapped his meat in that prehistoric bread.

You think prehistoric man, our forefather, was smart enough to hunt and gather and reproduce successfully — spawning our whole society here — and didn’t recognize the importance and deliciousness of the prehistoric sandwich? Not a chance.

I’ve made this point before: Survey humanity. Just about every culture wraps some sort of protein in some sort of starch. We call it a sandwich and credit it to John Montagu, the Fourth Earl of Sandwich, but that’s a cultural and semantic distinction, and one that vaguely discredits the fine work done by visionaries like Hillel the Elder.

The desire to package meat in bread is baked — pardon the pun — into our very constitution. When scientists eventually sequence the entire human genome, perhaps they’ll discover the section that makes us enjoy sandwiches so thoroughly.

I surmise that prehistoric man probably bit into some meat one day and said, “Damn, this meat is delicious, but I really wish there were some sort of crusty, flaky, milder-tasting starch-based food product to accompany and surround it, creating a synergistic relationship in terms of both flavor and convenience,” then went out and created bread.

Except he probably didn’t say it exactly like that. Did prehistoric man have language? Who has got time to look up a thing like that at a moment like this? The important thing is bully to that guy for obviously desiring something that didn’t even exist yet, though I imagine bread and bread-like products would have been invented one way or the other, because, like I said, desiring burritos is clearly an invariable aspect of the human condition.

Pork!

I smoked a pork butt yesterday to make pulled pork. I expected it would take about 8-10 hours, but it wound up taking 13. In the middle, when I realized I wasn’t going to have my home-smoked pulled pork ready in time for a reasonable dinner hour, I walked a couple blocks to my local pizza place for a calzone to tide me over.

When I left, I caught the smell of delicious smoky barbecue and wondered if someone else in my neighborhood was also wood-firing some meat on a Sunday afternoon. But as I approached my house, I realized that I was the source — the smell of hickory and pecan smoke from my backyard was blanketing at least a four-block radius, I just didn’t smell it on my way to the pizza place because my nostrils had grown accustomed to it. Amazing. I should get some sort of civic honor.

Anyway, turns out the hardest part of smoking a pork butt is finding a suitable pork butt. All the instructions I could find pertained to bone-in pork butt (pause, as they say), but Stew Leonard’s — the place I could find near me selling pork butt — only had the deboned variety. (Also, no vinegar in the whole damn store.) Plus it looks like the butcher cut off a little fat from the top that might have been better left on there:

From there, it’s not terribly hard. Just a bit time consuming. Cover the butt in yellow mustard and spice rub. The mustard helps seal in the juices and gives the rub something to stick to, forming a nice crust when it’s all finished. The rub seals in the juices too, I believe, plus adds a little spice. I wanted the pork to be versatile — I knew there’d be enough of it that I’d ultimately use it in a variety of meals — so I didn’t want to go overboard with flavor in the rub. It was mostly paprika, salt and pepper, then a little bit of a lot of other stuff from the pantry.

Once that’s done, onto the smoker:

I used a mix of hickory and pecan woods. Hickory is sort of the gold-standard, bacony-smelling (I guess technically bacon is hickory-smelling, but whatever) barbecue wood, but I found with baby-back ribs that the flavor could be a bit overpowering. So I cut it with pecan here because pecan smells a bit like hickory and because it’s what I had.

I mopped it with a mix of cranberry juice, olive oil and spice rub a couple times toward the end, to moisten the outside parts and give the crust a little sweetness, a tip I took from a book by Gary Wiviott. But mostly, you just have to do whatever you need to do to the fire to maintain a steady smoke and low heat — around 250-degrees Fahrenheit — until the pork is between 190- and 200-degrees inside, at which point it sort of starts falling apart on its own. Doesn’t look all that appealing, really:

Next comes the really tedious part. Take that 8.5-pound pork butt and pull it into tiny bits:

Then, at 10 p.m., after you’ve been futzing with the fire all day, while you still reek of smoke, with spice rub still under your fingernails, enjoy your damn sandwich already. More on that later in the week.

Sandwich of the Week

This week’s sandwich came heavily recommended from various readers, Twitterers, and my friend Brad, who works near the shop in question. I appreciate sandwich recommendations so please keep them coming. I know there is no shortage of delicious sandwiches in this fine city, so if you’ve got one you love, I’m down to, you know, eat it. Especially if it’s within a reasonable subway haul from Rockefeller Plaza or a reasonable drive from Central Westchester, and especially if it’s something of an offbeat sandwich, since there are only so many things I can say about burgers.

(I don’t mean that. I can’t say enough about burgers. I’m sorry I even suggested otherwise, ground beef. I love you.)

The sandwich: Hot roast beef from Defonte’s of Brooklyn, 21st and 3rd Ave., Manhattan (also apparently in Red Hook, but good luck tearing yourself away from the taco trucks).

The construction: House-made Italian bread with roast beef, fresh  mozzarella, fried eggplant and au jus.

Important background info: I probably should’ve ordered the hot roast beef to stay — especially considering the wonderful smell at Defonte’s — but it was a nice day and I passed Gramercy Park on my way, so I figured I’d take it out and go sit on a park bench with my sandwich. Somewhere deep in my head I’m sure I knew that Gramercy Park is closed to the public and accessible only via key to residents of specific area buildings, but it slipped my mind on Friday, focused as I was on this much-hyped sandwich.

I walked a full lap of the park looking for an open entrance, panicking, knowing that my sandwich — with that au jus on it — was growing soggy. When I figured out I wasn’t allowed in, my head filled up with anti-capitalist angst as I hauled ass toward Union Square. Dammit, this city has so little green space, what exists should be for everyone! Those sons of bitches have a lot of nerve, locking people out. Damn-near shameful.

I eventually found a suitable bench on the northeast side of Union Square park. But soon after I opened my sandwich, a lady sat right across from me and started feeding squirrels, and I could see the little bastards eying my roast beef. That’s mine! Away from my sandwich, rodents! Move on, Willard-woman, please let me eat in peace. Next some panhandlers came by with cardboard signs and guilt trips. Man, isn’t there some way to make this park more exclusive?

What it looks like:

How it tastes: A bit soggy, as I feared, but still really, really tasty.

My particular mound of roast beef came from near the end of the roast, but it was still rare, moist and tender. This was a huge thing for customers at the deli — there were a lot of people who just didn’t want roast beef until it was cut from the center and rarest part of the meat. I always thought the rareness factor was at least a tiny bit overrated, but obviously I recognize that the butt-end of a roast beef is usually dry and unappetizing. Not the case at Defonte’s (though this wasn’t quite the very end), at all. Helps that they’ve got it soaking in jus, of course.

Speaking of: Something in this sandwich was quite garlicky, and I’m guessing it was that jus. Which is good. Garlicky is good. Every time I lifted my hand near my mouth for the rest of the day I smelt buttery garlic and remembered the sandwich, a nice little reminder of a delicious sandwich past.

And when I got good bites of the fried eggplant — when it was crispy — it perfectly complemented the roast beef and added some crunchiness to the sandwich. It was soggy a bit too often, unfortunately, which was a shame because it’s clearly what makes this sandwich especially notable. That’s not Defonte’s fault, of course; blame me for taking the thing to go and the people of the Gramercy area for locking their park (and that woman inside for not coming over and opening the gate for me when she saw me standing there, pathetic, obviously eager to eat a sandwich).

My one quibble would be the amount of fresh mozzarella. I should probably mention that this is a complaint I have with every food item in the world that’s not a massive hunk of fresh mozzarella, but on the hot roast beef the delicious cheese got overwhelmed a bit by the huge amount of meat. No disrespect to meat, obviously, but if I were constructing this sandwich myself, I’d probably substitute another layer of mozzarella for the last few slices of roast beef to balance out the proportions a little bit.

What it’s worth: Sandwich cost about $10, plus two rides on the subway and about 10 minutes of walking for me. But look at that damn thing; there’s enough there for two meals. Good luck trying to stop eating it after the first half, though.

How it rates: Please excuse me for avoiding a proper rating for the second straight week. As I enjoyed it, this sandwich still merits a rating in the mid-to-high 80s: delicious. But due to the potential here and all the vehement recommendations, I suspect that under the proper conditions this might very well have been a Hall of Fame sandwich. I guess think of it like the Tony Conigliaro of sandwiches: An Italian stud on a Hall of Fame trajectory but sidetracked by misfortune. Only obviously the story of the hot roast beef is far less tragic, since it will end with me eating another.

From the “particularly ominous e-mails” folder

Ted, you better review the McRib when it is rereleased. Possibly Nov. 2.

– Kevin, via email.

Kevin: Duh.

This is actually the first I heard about the glorious return of the McRib, but a quick Googling reveals this helpful website, which identifies the locations of known McRib-distributing McDonald’s restaurants.

I trust it will still have weird grill-simulating stripes.

Sandwich of the Week

Last week, I mentioned how Russ from work keeps criticizing me for seemingly rating every sandwich in the 80s or above. I gave Russ a piece of my mind on Thursday, because, as a spreadsheet jockey, he should understand selection bias.

Now that I’m only discussing one sandwich a week, I’m not reviewing every sandwich I eat in a week. So it’s a pretty safe bet I’m writing about the most notable sandwich I ate in the week, which usually means the best sandwich. Are you coming here to read about the crappy knockoff sandwiches I get from the soulless Midtown food bar places around my office? I certainly hope not, because I’m not writing about them.

So here’s another excellent sandwich, the best I ate this week. Bite me, Russ.

The sandwich: Bacon and Cheddar Burger, Bill’s Bar and Burger, two locations in Manhattan, one that happens to be  directly across the street from my office.

The construction: What it sounds like: A burger with bacon and cheddar cheese on a sesame-seed bun.

I added ketchup from the table, as seen in the photo below, but once I dipped my fry in the little accompanying cup of ketchup, I realized my mistake. The fries at Bill’s Bar and Burger apparently come with the very hot sauce/ketchup hybrid I speculated about last week, which presumably would have been great on the burger. They were excellent and so was the condiment, but this isn’t French Fry of the Week so let’s move on.

Important background information: I have been eagerly awaiting the opening of Bill’s Bar and Burger for months. As I’ve discussed, Midtown is something of a wasteland for good, economical eating, though if you use the Internet and your legs you can get by pretty well. Still, Bill’s is right across the street and promised to be a welcome alternative to Heartland Brewery for the occasional midday pow-wow.

Also, while under construction, Bill’s had wrappers on the windows with a bunch of reviews printed on them. One of them read something along the lines of, “Bill’s renewed my faith in burgers.”

Sorry, bad review. I’m sorry, but if you ever lose faith in burgers I just do not trust you to review food. I mean, have you even been to a Five Guys, bro? How could you lose faith in burgers?

What it looks like:

(Note that the burger does not come cut in half; that’s something I did on my own. I find that having corners from which to begin eating makes the whole process both neater and more enjoyable.)

How it tastes: Great. Like I said, I had high hopes for this burger, and it at least met my expectations.

I think one thing people miss a lot when making burgers at home is that you want meat with a high fat content. Big-time rookie mistake. Back in college, I used to buy ground beef that was like 93-percent lean, thinking that was the way to get high-quality, meaty tasting burgers. Silly college-aged me didn’t realize that higher fat content makes the burgers juicy and delicious, which is probably why silly college-aged me wound up spending way more time driving 15 miles into Virginia to one of the original Five Guys than barbecuing on our back porch.

Judging by all the meatjuice pouring out of every bite of Bill’s burger, I’d guess this thing had to be at least in the 20-percent fat range, right in the optimal zone there. Delicious, flavorful meat. Quality stuff.

Also, it had cheese and bacon on it. The bacon, in particular, was notable because Bill’s did it the right way: crispy as all get-out. I don’t need to tell you what good bacon adds to a good burger. I mean I assume I don’t. If you don’t know about that by now, I don’t know what you’re doing reading this blog and not eating a bacon cheeseburger.

Alex Belth and I discussed on Friday the way the standards for burgers have risen in the last five-to-ten years. I’ll maintain that it’s less about a fleeting trend and more about competition stemming from the Internet exposing hungry people to a better array of options, but it’s a good point either way. The standard (and still tasty, don’t get me wrong) diner cheeseburger now seems only replacement-level. In college we used to drive a 20 minutes to get to Five Guys, back when there were only a couple of them, and now they’re practically ubiquitous (except in Westchester, frustratingly enough). This is a good thing.

What it’s worth: Bill’s is a sit-down place, which means you’re going to have to tip your waiter and maybe buy a drink, plus the burgers don’t come with fries so if you’re looking to get starchy with it it’ll be an extra four bucks. But the bacon and cheddar burger only costs $7.50, which is a pretty good deal for Midtown. It’s not a particularly huge burger, but that’s probably a good thing if you’re eating in the middle of your workday because then you’re not asleep at your desk by 3 p.m.

How it rates: I want to reserve the right to hold off on rating Bill’s bacon and cheddar burger for a couple of reasons. For one, burgers are something I take very seriously, perhaps moreso than any other sandwich. And after one sampling, I sense Bill’s might be an upper-echelon burger, but I don’t want to overrate it based on only one experience. Second, I defy Russ from work — who will sometimes go weeks eating the same sandwich every day — to eat this or any other burger from Bill’s and tell me it doesn’t deserve at least an 85. It’s right across the street, Russ.

I should have thought that a pack of British boys would have been able to put up a better show than that

After Anthony pulls his crock of roasted cherries from the oven, we let the fire die, just short of 36 hours after lighting it. This fire has been protean, and the big-mouthed oven, which by now seems more like a character in our drama than a prop, has been prodigious in its output. I raise a glass to offer a toast, first to our hosts, then, of course, to the goat and lastly to all the cooks at the table. It seems to me that one of the many, many things our fire produced is a sense of community, as cook fires have probably always done, but especially among those of us who worked to bring all this food to the table.

Michael Pollan, N.Y. Times.

Pretty decent read from the Times about a 36-hour backyard wood-fire goat roast, with lots of tasty-sounding descriptions. But I gotta say: I’m a little disappointed that this “pyro-gastronomical experiment” never descended into savagery.

If I ever throw a fire-pit meat-fest in my backyard, there’s going to be a whole lot less pleasant conversation and fennel and a whole lot more ominous chanting, warpaint and pyrolatry. Lord of the Flies stuff. We might even get way out of hand and murder the quiet guy in massively symbolic fashion.