Sandwich of the Week disappoints

At some point in college, I memorized the names, locations and restaurant choices present at every roadside rest stop between New York and Washington. I thought it was funny to refer to them by name — the Walt Whitman, the Joyce Kilmer — and, more importantly, I learned to plan my drive and fueling schedule around the best available fast-food choices.

Over time, though, I lost track of the names and many of the particulars. I developed instead some sort of conditioned subconscious feel for the location of every Roy Rogers along the route, and which Roy Rogers I’d be stopping at based on the amount of gas in the tank at the outset of each trip.

Usually it was the Delaware Travel Plaza, a little past halfway when leaving rested from New York and a great place to recaffeinate when driving back weary after a weekend in DC. It boasted clean-enough bathrooms, a Sbarro for aroma, a Starbucks for coffee, and I think maybe even a Cinnabon for quick and glorious death by sugar — but don’t quote me on that. What mattered most was the Roy Rogers, and a fine one at that.

Look: I don’t mean to knock the other fast-food choices present along the route. (Except Burger King; I’ll happily knock Burger King.) Several stops have Popeye’s Chicken, and Popeye’s Chicken is amazing. But you can get Popeye’s practically anywhere. Except Westchester, of course, unless you’re willing to pay the $1.25 toll to get on the Thruway north from Yonkers to stop at the Popeye’s in the rest stop in Ardsley, which, incidentally, I usually am.

To me, a drive down to DC means a rare opportunity to eat Roy Rogers — the staple fast-food of my early childhood — and I almost never pass it up.

The sandwich: Gold Rush Chicken Sandwich, Roy Rogers, many locations, but not nearly as many as there used to be. For some stupid reason.

The construction: Fried chicken fillet on hamburger bun with bacon, Monterrey Jack cheese and honey mustard. I added lettuce and pickles from the Fixins Bar.

Important background information: I knew the Delaware Travel Plaza closed for renovations last year sometime, but I figured it would be operating again by now and just kind of assumed it would still have a Roy Rogers. Like I said, it’s not something I really thought about, but sort of an ingrained understanding of accessible Roy Rogers restaurants — Roydar?.

Words cannot express my disappointment when I spotted the sign for the new and “improved” Delaware Travel Plaza boasting a Burger King and a Popeye’s. Again, no disrespect to Popeye’s. But c’mon. Just, c’mon.

Worst part was there was roadwork throughout the state, so I had to sit in traffic like a goon, staring at the new, gleaming, vaguely postmodern Travel Plaza. If you’re playing at home, Delaware now has like a billion tolls, endless roadwork, and zero Roy Rogers. For shame, Delaware. For shame.

Luckily, I had enough in the tank to make it past the Chesapeake House and all the way to the Maryland House, by which point I was starving.

What it looks like:


How it tastes: Disappointing. Really disappointing.

I got to the Maryland House pretty late — past my dinner time, and apparently late enough that the sandwiches had been sitting wrapped in foil under the heat lamp for quite a while. And I understand how it goes at rest stops. Don’t get me wrong, I’m hardly asking for my order to be made fresh. But I’d rather not unwrap a soggy mess, honey mustard spilled out onto the foil and creating a thin, gooey coating on the outside of the bun.

The chicken itself was rubbery, the cheese underwhelming, the bacon thin and limp. And not enough honey mustard was still on the sandwich proper; it was just kind of all about the sandwich, and all over my hands. The pickles were pretty delicious.

I should say that this sandwich was still OK. There’s only so badly you could screw up fried chicken, bacon and cheese. Roy Rogers tested those limits, and I still devoured the thing. It just didn’t match the quality I’ve come to expect even from roadside-rest Roy Rogers. And I like to imagine Roy Rogers himself wouldn’t stand for this.

What it’s worth: Food tends to be a little more expensive at rest stops because they’ve pretty much got a monopoly on your options. Sort of like Disney World, except if Disney World were among the most depressing places in the world. I think the Gold Rush cost me $6 or something. Pricey, considering.

How it rates: 45 out of 100. A once-very good sandwich clearly past its prime, still boasting some qualities that vaguely resemble a good sandwich, but nonetheless hovering barely above replacement-level. The Miguel Tejada of sandwiches.

No one told me it was National Sandwich Day

There’s nothing so wonderful as a good sandwich; today, Nov. 3, we celebrate the classic lunchtime companion with National Sandwich Day.

The sandwich day is held on John Montagu’s birthday because he is believed to have created the new menu item. As the fourth Earl of Sandwich, Montagu’s name was given to his creation, which reportedly came about when he was too busy to eat a regular meal during a gambling bender back in the 18th century.

Shaun Courtney, Georgetown Patch.

Well, shame on all y’all for not telling me it was National Sandwich Day. I’ve been trying to eat healthy this week after a positively disgusting display of eating over the weekend in D.C., and I actually had a salad for lunch like a sucker.

Salad should not count as lunch. I just finished it not ten minutes ago, and I’m already hungry. But I’m not going to eat any more lunch because the damn thing cost ten bucks.

Sandwich is lunch. And today is National Sandwich Day, and I didn’t even have a sandwich for lunch, like I almost always do.

But you know what? Whatever. Every day is National some-food Day, and how the hell am I supposed to keep up? Did you know that yesterday was National Deviled Egg Day? No joke. Swing and a miss. You didn’t even seize the opportunity to eat a delicious deviled egg.

Calling Nov. 3 National Sandwich Day — thrusting the sandwich into the same category as the deviled egg — diminishes the universal appeal of sandwiches. Listen to me: Every f@#$ing day is National Sandwich Day. Every day.

There’s at least a reasonable excuse to make this National Sandwich Day — unlike with the nachos. John Montagu, the 4th Earl of Sandwich, would have been 292 years old today if he had only discovered the Hoagie of Youth.

But you know what else? The 4th Earl of Sandwich didn’t even invent the sandwich. Not only were people eating sandwiches literally thousands of years before John Montagu was even born, but the Wikipedia suggests he might have learned about sandwiches from his brother-in-law. It also says Montagu had a reputation for being incompetent and corrupt, which doesn’t sound like the type of person who’d be responsible for the true invention of the sandwich.

So in conclusion, I will probably eat a sandwich today, but not because it’s National Sandwich Day. Don’t tell me what to do, calendar.

A White Castle Hall of Famer

I will never be President; I will never be a football player. But I am a White Castle Hall of Famer.

Victor Gradowski, White Castle Cravers Hall of Fame inductee

OK, there’s really so much here. First off, who knew White Castle even had a Hall of Fame? Apparently the ceremonies will be at White Castle’s home office in Columbus, Ohio — the fast-food equivalent of Mecca — and there are 67 White Castle enthusiasts enshrined in the Cravers Hall of Fame.

Second, why the hell isn’t my dad in the White Castle Cravers Hall of Fame? The Daily News article says Gradowski earned the honor for eating five cheeseburgers a week for four years. That’s what, a thousand White Castle cheeseburgers?

My dad has been eating White Castle for like 50 years; I’d venture to guess he has at least quadrupled Gradowski’s total. Dude has an iron stomach. Next year I’m nominating Don Berg for the White Castle Cravers Hall of Fame.

I certainly get The Crave sometimes, and when White Castle was my nearest fast-food place in Brooklyn I went there with some frequency, but I’d hardly say I qualify for the Hall of Fame. Taco Bell, though, is a different story. Does Taco Bell have a Hall of Fame?

Sandwich of the Week

This is last week’s sandwich of the week, which I meant to publish Saturday. I failed on that, but here’s a sandwich:

The sandwich: Honey-Maple Turkey, bacon, muenster and cole slaw on a “wedge,” from Pop’s Deli in Hawthorne, N.Y.

The construction: All of those things I just mentioned, piled onto a hero roll, which for some reason they call a “wedge” in Westchester (and some parts of Jersey).

I should note now that I think there’s a difference in the bread styles used for long sandwiches between the delis I grew up with on Long Island and those I now enjoy in Westchester. This could be a small sample size thing, but I’m pretty sure the standard “hero” on Long Island comes on bread that’s a bit flakier and more airy than the Westchester “wedge” bread, which is dense and chewy.

I’m obviously partial to the one I’m more familiar with (more on this to follow), but both are good. And I’m open to the possibility that, in each area, I’m only eating bread from one specific wholesale bakery that supplies bread to all the local delis (for Long Island, I know this to be true).

Is this the difference between Italian and French bread? Hmm… come to think of it, is there a difference between Italian bread and French bread?

Important background information: I think all discussions of effective branding should start with Boar’s Head. Bad lunchmeat can be downright disgusting, but I know when I order Boar’s Head products I can expect a certain quality. And yeah, I recognize that Boar’s Head probably isn’t the best lunchmeat available. But it’s consistently good, and I’d rather not take my chances with an unknown quantity, given the risk.

For that reason, I often order specific Boar’s Head products like Honey-Maple Turkey at delis, since it assures that they’re not going to try to slice up some off-brand turkey that will turn out gross.

This particular sandwich was the product of endless sandwich tinkering from  my years behind the deli counter, and it’s good enough that I think it should be given a name and standardized like the Reuben once was. Preferably, it should be named after me.

What it looks like:


How it tastes: Very good, of course. I came to this sandwich, I think, after determining that the sweetness of the Honey-Maple Turkey goes well with bacon (like just about everything else). Pop’s does a good job with bacon — always well-done and crispy — and the turkey was sliced nice and thin, maximizing surface area and thus flavor.

If you appreciate cole slaw even a little bit — I know it’s a divisive salad — I strongly recommend you try it on a sandwich. It adds the moisture you might hope for from mayonnaise or mustard, but it’s obviously way tastier than mayo plus adds an additional crunchy element on top of the bacon.

Muenster cheese you know about, presumably. I don’t remember why I initially put muenster on this sandwich, but it plays. There are a lot of flavors here, and I think a stronger cheese like a cheddar might conflict with the cole slaw, or something. The muenster here is just about complementing the rest of the sandwich, and also making sure the sandwich has cheese on it.

Like I said, both forms of the long-sandwich bread are very good, but I find the Westchester variety fills me up a lot faster than the Long Island type. I think it’s a density thing, but I’m also willing to consider that this sandwich was probably 14″ long and filled with bacon. Could be a simple size thing, too. In either case, this sandwich beat me. Too long, couldn’t finish, to paraphrase the Internet.

The other issue is I’ve now had this sandwich so many times that I’m probably almost biased against it. It’s a bit routine now, even though it’s still really good.

What it’s worth: Cost me about $7.50, I believe, which is a pretty great deal. This really should have been two meals, and I should have known better than to start the second half of the sandwich. I didn’t know better, but that’s on me.

How it rates: 80 out of 100. I can’t find many baseball players from Westchester and this sandwich is a lot better than Dan Pasqua, so I’m just going to go ahead and go with a Long Island guy that’s probably better than an 80: The Frank Viola of Sandwiches. I have no idea why.

The sandwich that made me love sandwiches

Originally published June 30, 2010.

I got a desperate text message from my old friend Charlie yesterday. It said this:

Buscos is no longer. RIP Full Bird, you will be missed.

My heart and mind raced. I furiously began texting him back, peppering him with questions about what happened. He didn’t know. He just knew it was gone. Busco’s is gone.

Busco’s was not the best deli in Rockville Centre, N.Y. Not even close. That honor belonged to E&W, right across the street, or my former employer DeBono’s, a bit off the beaten path.

But Busco’s boasted something none of the others could. The Full Bird. Her majesty.

There’s nothing particularly notable about a chicken cutlet hero with bacon and american cheese. Hell, something similar is on the specials board at every deli in America.

Busco’s did theirs particularly well, though. The proportions were great, and they sliced up the chicken cutlets into thin strips and piled them on the bread, maximizing delicious surface area and minimizing the all the inherent problems prompted by oddly shaped chicken cutlets. Every bite of every full bird had chicken, bacon and cheese on it. That’s important. Sandwich uniformity should not be underrated.

And the Full Bird is notable because it was the first of its kind in Rockville Centre, or at least the first I became familiar with. Before high school, my friends and I ate at Taco Bell and the McDonald’s Express. We were middle schoolers, so we didn’t have much money.

But in my first few weeks of football practice in high school, an older guy named Nick De Luca — a Mets fan, I know, so maybe he’s reading somewhere. Whatup De Luca? — took me to Busco’s and introduced me to the Full Bird.

Holy lord. I had eaten sandwiches before, of course, but usually the type we made at home on Pepperidge Farm bread with cold cuts from the supermarket. Not like this. This was a sandwich to make you love sandwiches. It was the sandwich that made me love sandwiches.

Football practice is an exhausting thing, and something that works up an appetite that can only be sated by piles of fried protein. We ate a whole lot of Full Birds those days. I never really gained any weight from them because we were exercising so much, but I realize now that I probably shaved about five years off my life with all the cholesterol. Whatever. Totally worth it.

And I would be remiss if I eulogized Busco’s without mentioning its best-ever employee. Busco’s was a true local place, the type where you recognized all the guys behind the counter. There was the mustache guy who I think was the owner, and that guy Pete who went to school with my brother, plus the older brother of that kid Jimmy from my Little League team.

And then there was Pat Greenfield. I should note that when I reminisce here about people from Rockville Centre I usually use made-up names so no future employer Googles them and ends up here to find me poking fun of them. But Nick De Luca and Pat Greenfield are real. These men deserve to be celebrated.

Greenfield was nothing short of the most legendary deli man in town history. A hero of heroes. When I went into the trade myself years later, I emulated Pat Greenfield. He was a hulking guy and I think a stud pitcher on the high-school baseball team a few years earlier. He wasn’t much one for conversation. He just made sandwiches.

But oh, how he made them. Oh, oh, oh. It’s not just about the amount of meat, though Greenfield gave you a ton. It’s about the proportion. The right mix of meat, cheese, bacon and dressing. And Greenfield — I don’t know if he studied or trained or just had an innate knack for it — he was the master. People in line would let other, less savvy customers cut ahead so they could get a Greenfield sandwich. Worth the wait.

Sometimes, when bragging about my own impressive abilities as a deli man, I claim this story for myself. But that’s a lie. It’s part of the Greenfield legend:

One time, my dad and I were waiting on line for sandwiches at Busco’s. Full Birds, no doubt. Greenfield was behind the counter working on someone else’s. He spun around to ask the person if she wanted tomatoes on it, but in so doing, he lifted up the sandwich and presented it to the crowd. And it was beautiful. It sparkled in the flourescent light, that signature Greenfield mix of ingredients.

There are people who are paid to dress up food for advertising photo shoots, and I can guarantee none of them has ever created a sandwich that looked like that one. It was perfect. It epitomized what sandwiches should look like. The crowd gasped. Seriously. A deli full of hungry, chatty customers fell silent at the sight of Greenfield’s hero.

Now Busco’s is no more, and Greenfield has gone off to who knows where. Hopefully he’s making sandwiches somewhere. He doesn’t know me, but maybe he’ll find this and agree to come to my house to make me some sandwiches.

That’s all I got. This is a sad day.

UPDATE, 8:05 p.m.: Just got a call from Charlie with an update. He called the nearby deli rumored to be taking over the Busco’s location, and it turns out commenter/Watson elementary school alum BHorn is right — Busco’s is taking over that deli, and not the other way around.

So Busco’s will be moving one town away, but the girl who answered the phone assured Charlie that the Full Bird would soon be added to the menu. As Charlie put it, “Like a beautiful bacon-filled Phoenix rising from the ashes.”

Long live The Full Bird.

I’ve also since been informed that Pat Greenfield is indeed still making tremendous sandwiches, just now at the aforementioned E&W Deli across the street. And someone else pointed out that this post will ultimately be sent to him and he’ll inevitably read it. Which is a bit awkward since, like I said, he has no idea who I am. But thanks for the sandwiches, dude. Your efforts are appreciated.

Reaching the target audience

KFC, the restaurant chain that launched the sweet and savory Doublicious sandwich earlier this year, has a recipe for a costume idea. As part of its year-long campaign to celebrate founder Colonel Harland Sanders’ life and legacy, the chain is issuing a national challenge to dress as the Colonel’s Doublicious Double for Halloween. One of the lucky doubles will win free KFC Doublicious sandwiches for life.

QSR Magazine.

I’m almost reluctant to share this because I don’t want any of you entering and diminishing my chances of winning free sandwiches for life. But TedQuarters is all about full disclosure.

I imagine people with more money and time to spend on Halloween costumes than I had four years ago will come up with something better than my costume. But let it be known that I thought dressing up like the Colonel was a good idea long before KFC ever did.

Also, I probably should’ve taken some photos after I got the bucket of chicken from KFC, or at least during the several surreal minutes I spent inside the KFC, waiting on the line to purchase chicken. And furthermore, buying a bucket of fried chicken and handing it out to passersby is a great way to make friends, not just on Halloween, but on any day of the year: