Wing theory

I don’t know what’s up with all the non-Taco Bell-related food posts lately, but the lengthy and active discussion about Buffalo wings in the comments section the other day and an email exchange with commenter Josh got me thinking.

For the purpose of this conversation, put aside the delicious-sounding non-Buffalo style wings that Catsmeat mentioned in that thread. I have no doubt that the Green Monster wings are amazing, but they’re not Buffalo wings. I trust there are no arguments about that. This post is about classic Buffalo wings.

What are the best Buffalo wings you’ve ever had?

Can you name a place that consistently serves Buffalo wings better than every other place does? I bet you can’t. There are a lot of places that serve awesome wings, no doubt, but few that serve wings above and beyond the high standard we (justifiably) set for Buffalo wings.

Buffalo-wing sauce should be made from a combination of Frank’s Red Hot sauce and butter. Some people claim it should include celery salt and/or lemon pepper, but in any case, there’s so little variation in the recipe that there is a ceiling on how good Buffalo wings can be.

Once you go far beyond those limited components, they won’t taste like Buffalo wings anymore. We expect them to taste a certain way, and when they do, they’re awesome. But you can’t have more Buffaloy Buffalo wings or anything like that. It’s two ingredients. Just don’t mess ’em up.

Plenty of places do, of course. You can likely name a restaurant or bar that serves bad or sub-par wings. Wings can be stale, too spicy, inadequately sauced or made with sauce from the wrong ingredients. That’s bad.

But as long as a place is using Frank’s and butter, the awesomeness of the wing comes down to a number of fickle variables — the quality and freshness of the chicken, who’s preparing the wings, and how long it has been since they’ve been prepared.

So my theory — and I haven’t thoroughly worked it out yet — says that there is no one place that serves the best Buffalo wings in the world. There are many places that, at any given moment, could be serving the best Buffalo wings in the world, but only because those places make wings the right way, a relatively simple procedure.

In the thread, Sherm and others suggested that wings upstate are better than wings in the Metro area. And I don’t doubt that wings upstate tend to be better than wings around these parts.

But I bet that distinction lies solely in the choice of ingredients — upstate wing retailers are more likely to use the correct, original recipe, whereas Metro-area wing purveyors might be more likely to use more cost-efficient hot sauce or try to gild the lily in some stupid, big-city way.

Which is why, as Josh pointed out via email, there really are no destination wings. Sure, you can travel 500 miles to eat good Buffalo wings, and if they’re made correctly they’ll be completely amazing. But that’s just the nature of Buffalo wings. They won’t be appreciably or consistently better than some Buffalo wing you can find closer to your home. You just need to find the place that does it right.

The sandwich that made me love sandwiches

I got a desperate text message from my old friend Charlie yesterday. It said this:

Buscos is no longer. RIP Full Bird, you will be missed.

My heart and mind raced. I furiously began texting him back, peppering him with questions about what happened. He didn’t know. He just knew it was gone. Busco’s is gone.

Busco’s was not the best deli in Rockville Centre, N.Y. Not even close. That honor belonged to E&W, right across the street, or my former employer DeBono’s, a bit off the beaten path.

But Busco’s boasted something none of the others could. The Full Bird. Her majesty.

There’s nothing particularly notable about a chicken cutlet hero with bacon and american cheese. Hell, something similar is on the specials board at every deli in America.

Busco’s did theirs particularly well, though. The proportions were great, and they sliced up the chicken cutlets into thin strips and piled them on the bread, maximizing delicious surface area and minimizing the all the inherent problems prompted by oddly shaped chicken cutlets. Every bite of every full bird had chicken, bacon and cheese on it. That’s important. Sandwich uniformity should not be underrated.

And the Full Bird is notable because it was the first of its kind in Rockville Centre, or at least the first I became familiar with. Before high school, my friends and I ate at Taco Bell and the McDonald’s Express. We were middle schoolers, so we didn’t have much money.

But in my first few weeks of football practice in high school, an older guy named Nick De Luca — a Mets fan, I know, so maybe he’s reading somewhere. Whatup De Luca? — took me to Busco’s and introduced me to the Full Bird.

Holy lord. I had eaten sandwiches before, of course, but usually the type we made at home on Pepperidge Farm bread with cold cuts from the supermarket. Not like this. This was a sandwich to make you love sandwiches. It was the sandwich that made me love sandwiches.

Football practice is an exhausting thing, and something that works up an appetite that can only be sated by piles of fried protein. We ate a whole lot of Full Birds those days. I never really gained any weight from them because we were exercising so much, but I realize now that I probably shaved about five years off my life with all the cholesterol. Whatever. Totally worth it.

And I would be remiss if I eulogized Busco’s without mentioning its best-ever employee. Busco’s was a true local place, the type where you recognized all the guys behind the counter. There was the mustache guy who I think was the owner, and that guy Pete who went to school with my brother, plus the older brother of that kid Jimmy from my Little League team.

And then there was Pat Greenfield. I should note that when I reminisce here about people from Rockville Centre I usually use made-up names so no future employer Googles them and ends up here to find me poking fun of them. But Nick De Luca and Pat Greenfield are real. These men deserve to be celebrated.

Greenfield was nothing short of the most legendary deli man in town history. A hero of heroes. When I went into the trade myself years later, I emulated Pat Greenfield. He was a hulking guy and I think a stud pitcher on the high-school baseball team a few years earlier. He wasn’t much one for conversation. He just made sandwiches.

But oh, how he made them. Oh, oh, oh. It’s not just about the amount of meat, though Greenfield gave you a ton. It’s about the proportion. The right mix of meat, cheese, bacon and dressing. And Greenfield — I don’t know if he studied or trained or just had an innate knack for it — he was the master. People in line would let other, less savvy customers cut ahead so they could get a Greenfield sandwich. Worth the wait.

Sometimes, when bragging about my own impressive abilities as a deli man, I claim this story for myself. But that’s a lie. It’s part of the Greenfield legend:

One time, my dad and I were waiting on line for sandwiches at Busco’s. Full Birds, no doubt. Greenfield was behind the counter working on someone else’s. He spun around to ask the person if she wanted tomatoes on it, but in so doing, he lifted up the sandwich and presented it to the crowd. And it was beautiful. It sparkled in the flourescent light, that signature Greenfield mix of ingredients.

There are people who are paid to dress up food for advertising photo shoots, and I can guarantee none of them has ever created a sandwich that looked like that one. It was perfect. It epitomized what sandwiches should look like. The crowd gasped. Seriously. A deli full of hungry, chatty customers fell silent at the sight of Greenfield’s hero.

Now Busco’s is no more, and Greenfield has gone off to who knows where. Hopefully he’s making sandwiches somewhere. He doesn’t know me, but maybe he’ll find this and agree to come to my house to make me some sandwiches.

That’s all I got. This is a sad day.

UPDATE, 8:05 p.m.: Just got a call from Charlie with an update. He called the nearby deli rumored to be taking over the Busco’s location, and it turns out commenter/Watson elementary school alum BHorn is right — Busco’s is taking over that deli, and not the other way around.

So Busco’s will be moving one town away, but the girl who answered the phone assured Charlie that the Full Bird would soon be added to the menu. As Charlie put it, “Like a beautiful bacon-filled Phoenix rising from the ashes.”

Long live The Full Bird.

I’ve also since been informed that Pat Greenfield is indeed still making tremendous sandwiches, just now at the aforementioned E&W Deli across the street. And someone else pointed out that this post will ultimately be sent to him and he’ll inevitably read it. Which is a bit awkward since, like I said, he has no idea who I am. But thanks for the sandwiches, dude. Your efforts are appreciated.

Enjoyable music to pass your time

I’m headed out to Citi Field to do some video stuff, then to midtown to help with some technical details on Bob Ojeda’s SNY.tv chat in the third inning tonight, which you should check out and participate in and everything.

I’m not sure I’ll be back at a computer long enough to post anything else today, so in lieu of that, here’s some Buena Vista Social Club for this steamy afternoon:

I must have that

Huge hat tip to @RobertJamis for pointing me to this N.Y. Post article about the city’s most gluttonous foods. Check out this sucker:

Why, as a matter of fact, yes that is macaroni and cheese on a hot dog. This, from a place called Ditch Plains in the West Village, is the clear highlight of the Post piece. Sure, the poutine mentioned appears delicious, but the Ditch Dog breaks new ground. A delicious, cheesy trailblazer.

Former roommate Mike, a fellow food innovator, has been known to put casserole-style mac and cheese on a roll and call it Smackaroni. I convinced him to try putting ham on his creation, but I think the Ditch Dog — replacing the seeded deli roll with a hot-dog bun — might present a slightly less absurd starch:meat ratio. You know, for the Atkins set.

Because it’s baseball and, apparently, wedding season, I’m not sure I’ll have much opportunity to get down the West Village before the stand opens up in Brooklyn. I will certainly have the opportunity to get to that stand in Brooklyn once it opens in late June, though, and I will, of course, report back here.

Where I was this morning

OK, so I chew stuff sometimes. Usually it’s a pen or a straw, but any small plastic object will do. It’s hardly a chronic habit, but I’d say about once a day I stumble upon something that appears chewable, and next thing I know I’m chomping away for about a half hour.

I realize it’s kind of gross, and Freud might have a field day with it. But I maintain that it’s not the jamming things in my mouth that I enjoy so much as the sensation of chewing itself. For some reason, I enjoy the feeling of working my jaw muscles.

For about 20 years, nearly every woman in my life has nagged me to quit the habit, insisting I’ll someday choke. My mom, my sister, various teachers, and now my wife.

Last night, while walking home from the train station, I started chewing the cap of a Poland Spring bottle. No idea why; it wasn’t something I did consciously. It rarely is. Next thing I knew — and this has never happened before — I swallowed the thing.

I didn’t choke, thankfully. I had chewed the cap into something akin to a football shape, and I guess that ergonomically tailored it to slide right down my throat. But though I could breathe and I wasn’t in any pain, I had a bottle cap inside me, so my wife convinced me I should probably go to the hospital.

I spent most of my next 10 waking hours being shuffled around the emergency room. By my count, all the consulting and poking and attempts at extracting the thing required eight nurses and five doctors. And every single one reminded me how stupid it is to stick plastic objects in my mouth, and told me that my mouth should only be for edible things.

Thanks. Because, you know, I thought I was supposed to swallow bottle caps, and I’m not humiliated enough without your help. It was the medical equivalent of booing David Wright after he slams his helmet down in frustration; they were just reinforcing an emotion I already came to on my own.

Anyway, apparently they would normally just let something like that pass through the system, but because I’m special for a variety of reasons, they gave me an endoscopy this morning to try to fish that sucker out. They couldn’t, and so now I have to hope it leaves my body via, ahh, more traditional means. Sorry for the imagery.

The best and most ridiculous part of the whole thing was the aftercare print-out from the hospital. Turns out the standard form for “swallowed foreign objects” is addressed to the parents of an infant or small child, and describes how it’s somewhat normal for children under the age of 5 to swallow parts of toys and small household items. Nothing in there about 29-year-olds doing the same thing.

I called my parents and read it to them. They had a good laugh, but they were unwilling to follow the suggested procedure for monitoring when it exits.

My mom, doing her mom thing, used the incident to argue that I should stop chewing on plastic stuff. I recognize she’s probably right, but from a statistical standpoint, she doesn’t have a very strong argument. I’ve probably chewed some 10,000 small plastic objects in my life, and never swallowed one before. What’re the odds it happens again?

I guess it only takes one time when I’m not as lucky, though. I should probably invest in some gum.

Inappropriate angle of large statue

I was going to piece together a whole From the Wikipedia post about the Vulcan statue in Birmingham, which I visited a couple days ago. But I’m in New Orleans now and I’ve got important things to not do.

So in lieu of that, here’s a picture of the Vulcan statue’s backside. For some reason, the sculptors provided the city of Birmingham (well, initially the 1904 St. Louis World’s Fair, but you can check the Wikipedia for that) with tons of gratuitous buttcrack. I really don’t know why Vulcan is apparently naked under his blacksmithing apron, but I guess maybe he’s freaky like that.

Great lede, or the greatest lede?

Once feared extinct, the giant Palouse earthworm, reputed to grow up to three feet long and smell like lilies, has been found alive.

It turns out though, experts say, the worm is not a giant, nor does it have a lilylike scent.

Jim Robbins, New York Times.

Well, if it’s not a huge, flowery-smelling worm, then I really don’t care that it still exists. I mean, no offense to the Palouse earthworm or whatever, and I guess given the choice I’d rather it not be extinct, but since I never knew it existed before today I could really care less if some stupid worm is still around in very limited numbers in Montana.

Also, for what it’s worth, I would hardly call a three-foot worm a “giant.” When I think “giant worm,” I think Tremors, the 1990 film in which monstrous underground worm-creatures torture Kevin Bacon.

Incidentally, thanks to that movie one of my friends growing up thought “tremors” actually referred to giant, carnivorous worms until at least middle school. So when he’d hear reports of “tremors outside Los Angeles” or whatever, he thought there were underground monsters. I spent a whole lot of time preventing people from teaching him otherwise.

Sean Carroll on time travel

It’s likely that we can’t do time travel. But we don’t know for sure. The arrow of time comes from the increase of entropy, meaning that the universe started out organized and gets messier as time goes on. Every way in which the past is different from the future can ultimately be traced to entropy. The fact that I remember the past and not the future can be traced to the fact that the past has lower entropy. I think I can make choices that affect the future, but that I can’t make choices that affect the past is also because of entropy. I can choose to have Italian food tonight, but I cannot choose to have not had it last night. But if I travel into the past, all that gets mixed up. My own personal future becomes part of the universe’s past. We’re not going to make logical sense of that. So the smart money would bet that it’s just not possible.

Physicist Sean Carroll, in a New York Times interview.

This is a pretty tremendous — if too brief — interview. Carroll puts a whole lot of crazy, big-picture science stuff into layman’s terms and nails precisely why I never paid much attention in my high-school science classes but now read Discover and the Science Times whenever I can.

As for the time travel thing, it strikes me that he’s probably right, and that’s depressing. I fantasize about time travel a lot, and I read and watch enough science fiction that sometimes I feel like it’s inevitable that we’ll eventually figure out a way to manipulate time. But when you really, really think about the implications of it, as Carroll suggests, it just doesn’t seem possible.

For what it’s worth, I wonder if time-travel narratives are more popular, relatively, in somewhat recent Western culture than in others. This Wikipedia page mentions incidences of time travel in ancient Hindu mythology and a Japanese folk tale from the 8th century A.D., but naturally it would take a lot more research to determine exactly when, why, and how often people started speculating about moving forward or backwards in time.

It feels like something that should be universal, but I guess I have only lived in a world where speculating about time travel is a regular happenstance. To me it seems at least partly driven by the Butterfly Effect; probably half of my time-travel fantasies involve going back in time to convince myself against some decision I made — even if it’s not something I particularly regret — just to see how it would impact my life now.

The other half involve tasting dinosaur meat, observing a dystopian future, harassing historical figures, and all the standard time-travel fare.

Mos Def raps while playing timpanis and wearing a Yomiuri Giants hat

I have always, always said that timpanis don’t get enough play in popular music, especially in live settings. I suppose that’s at least partly because they’re really expensive and a pain to transport, so you kind of have to be Mos Def or someone to pull it off.

One fun note about timpanis for those of you who haven’t spent way too many hours futzing around school band rooms: They are equipped with pedals on the bottom that adjust the tension of the drum head, changing the pitch. So if you do a roll on the timpani while slowly moving the pedal down with your foot, the pitch glides up like a glissando on the trombone.

I’m pretty sure a few modern composers actually call for the technique, but it’s strictly forbidden by angry band directors everywhere, especially when you’re not a percussionist and shouldn’t be anywhere near the expensive timpanis to begin with.

In a related story, New Orleans-based funk drummer Stanton Moore attaches a rubber hose to a tom-tom and blows air into it to create the same pitch-bending effect in drum solos. It’s awesome.