Sandwich of the Week

Something to read while you stew over the Jets game.

The sandwich: Beef sausage hero, Ma Peche, 56th bet. 5th and 6th in Manhattan.

The construction: Beef sausage on baguette with jalapeno mustard-relish and fried shallots.

Important background information: My second trip to a Momofuku restaurant in two weeks after never having been to one before — that alone should speak to the quality of the pork buns.

Actually obtaining a sandwich to go from the Midtown installment requires some foresight: You have to order online the day before or on the morning you want your sandwich. After the pork bun experience I knew I had to have one of these, but it took me a while because I never remember lunch until around noon, and by noon it’s too late to order.

It felt cool to order it, like I knew some sort of secret code. But the more I thought about it, the more it seemed like it might be needlessly complicated. Do you have to special order the sausage or something?

What it looks like:

How it tastes: Before I even bit into the beef sausage sandwich I knew it was going to be a letdown after the pork buns. Granted, there are some Hall of Fame sandwiches that would be letdowns after the pork buns, but looking at it — just a sausage sitting atop a mustardy ingredient goo on a piece of French bread — I didn’t feel the same pull I did from the glimmering, fatty pork.

The sausage itself was very good. No flavor stands out besides the obvious sausage flavor, but it’s not overwhelmingly greasy or processed-tasting at all. A good solid, sausagey sausage. And though it was beef, in terms of taste I’d say it seemed more toward the Italian side of the sausage spectrum than the German side. It had a nice snappy casing and was well-prepared.

(I know a guy who worked for a while as a fromagiere — a professional cheese taster in a restaurant. Dude was incredible; I never realized anyone could know so much about cheese. He could taste cheese and, in many cases, identify the county from which it came. I wonder if there’s an equivalent job for sausage. There are so many variations of sausage, it’d be good to have an expert catalog them all in some fashion. I guess, though, there are a lot of bad sausages out there, so it wouldn’t all be glorious.)

The bread itself was fresh and flaky, but it might have been slightly too hearty for a sausage sandwich. This is a matter of taste, of course, but the bread was so thick that you either had to take a huge bite to get bread and sausage together or take smaller bites that were mostly sausage staggered with mostly bread. I’m here for the full package, please.

Same thing is true for the ingredient goo. It was itself delicious — easily the highlight of the sandwich — but it got buried so deep down in the crevice of the bread that it was near-impossible to get a bite of sausage with adequate jalapeno mustard-relish on it.

They say it’s cucumbers, jalapenos and mustard on the menu, for what it’s worth, but obviously I know what mustard and relish taste like combined. And this tastes a lot like that. Those cucumbers must be pickled. Indisputably good, though — I don’t really care what they call it if it’s good. The mustard had a nice bite to it and the relish part added sweetness.

The jalapenos brought a little flavor, but not too much heat. I rectified that with the hot sauce they included on the side. Word is there were crispy fried shallots in there, and if I strain hard I can remember at least a little bit of crunch, but I think most of them were drowned in goo and rendered uncrispy.

In all, it was a collection of really delicious elements and, truth be told, a very good sandwich — some sort of more uppity take on the hot dog, really. It just felt like it had the potential to be much more if they were better distributed or in better proportion. As it was, it was a nice sampling of good flavors but not a single, cohesive, transcendent sandwich.

What it’s worth: Cost $10 and a five-block walk. Probably worth it, though next time I’ve got lunch planned out far enough in advance to order it from Ma Peche, I’ll probably try the banh mi or the noodles.

How it rates: 75 out of 100.

Is this really a thing?

His presence did not go unheralded in the apartment, in a new warehouse conversion along the Brooklyn waterfront, although the intimate cluster of guests could have easily served themselves. “In my opinion, if you don’t have a bartender at your party, you’re a loser,” said Dustin Terry, who lives a floor below Ms. Argiro and said his job was to get models and Saudi royalty into hot clubs. “The bartender brings class and sophistication.”

“If you can’t afford to hire a bartender,” he added, “you shouldn’t be having a party.”

That seems to be the consensus of a growing crowd of 30-something New Yorkers who wish to signal they’ve graduated from post-collegiate squalor to young professional coming of age. No matter how small their abodes, they won’t invite friends over for cocktails without the assistance of a bartender — even if there’s barely room for the bartender to stand.

Tim Murphy, N.Y. Times.

Wait, hold on: Is this really a thing? It’s been quite a while since I’ve been to a house party, but technically I’m going to be a 30-something in a little over a month. And I can’t really imagine anyone I know hiring a bartender to work a party in a tiny apartment. Seems like conspicuous consumption to me, and, worse, a huge waste of space.

Of course, like I said, most people I know don’t throw a lot of house parties. Or if they do, they don’t invite me.

If you’re having a party and you’ve invited me, know that I’m totally cool with a spread of hard liquors and mixers in plastic bottles on a sticky table, and maybe some cans of beer on ice in a cooler underneath. If that’s unsophisticated, I don’t want to be sophisticated.

Also, if you ever catch me saying something like, “If you can’t afford a bartender, you shouldn’t have a party,” please, please punch me in the face. In fact, though I’m generally a pacifist, I’m tempted to find Dustin Terry and fight him just on principle.

Lots of Times links today. Hat tip to Chuck Cannongeyser for this one.

To the Quebecois coming to Nassau Coliseum tomorrow

Dear Sirs and Madams:

I hope you read English because my French is quite limited. I support your efforts to return NHL hockey to Quebec. I don’t know any of the politics or economics behind it, but to me it’s b.s. that the Nordiques even left in the first place, because obviously Canada is for hockey (and vice versa), and because the Nordiques had a sweet logo that I have on a t-shirt somewhere. I don’t follow hockey much, but I’ll admit it’s a pretty sweet sport. And I know that the Islanders suck and don’t draw well, and that often when I turn on an N.H.L. game I see teams I’ve never heard of before. Has Columbus, Ohio really had a professional hockey team since 2000? Did I just miss that entirely?

Anyway, on behalf of Long Island, Nassau County and the Town of Hempstead, my longtime home, I welcome you to Uniondale. My advice to you is to spend as little of your time in the area in Uniondale, though inevitably you will spend hours on your way into and out of the Nassau Coliseum’s parking lot,  no matter how few people attend the game. I think more people park there than actually go inside. No one can really explain it.

You’ll probably want to eat while you’re in the area. If you have access to a car, drive west down Hempstead Turnpike and gawk at our amazing array of fast food fried-chicken purveyors. But resist the temptation to stop at the Popeye’s, the first KFC, the Kennedy Fried Chicken or the second KFC, and drive all the way down to the very end of the Chicken Strip. There you’ll find Wings N’ Things, the best option for a truly local experience. If you’ve got enough friends with you, I recommend their 80-piece bucket, which is actually on the menu.

And if you’re really looking to sample the best of local cuisine, take a left on Henry St. and proceed south. (I should note now that the drinking age in the United States is 21, so if you have anyone younger than that interested in purchasing alcohol, you might want to stop by Henry Street Liquors, a strange pocket of apparently independent territory where those restrictions are not enforced. You’ll see the big yellow sign.)

Henry Street becomes Baldwin Road and eventually Grand Avenue. On your left, you’ll see a shopping center with an Associated Supermarket. There’ll you’ll find Ferring Deli, one of the area’s very best, plus a good pizzeria and Jamaican bakery. Enjoy. If you pass another KFC, you’ve gone too far.

Enjoy your stay on Long Island, and feel free to take the Islanders with you.

Ted.

Wither the Santa Claus Curse?

Beware, Mets fans: the team revealed Tuesday that David Wright will play the role of Santa Claus at next Tuesday’s holiday party, one of the club’s most popular annual charitable endeavors. But like an action shot on the cover of Sports Illustrated or an appointment to defend the dark arts at Hogwarts, it is not an honor to be taken lightly.

For the better part of the past decade, the position has quite obviously been cursed; any player who has pulled on the red-and-white suit has either left the team, been injured or suffered a serious decline in production thereafter.

Anthony DiComo, MLB.com.

Obviously neither DiComo nor anyone else is taking the “Santa Claus Curse” all that seriously, but there’s a pretty reasonable explanation here:

The Mets apparently aren’t going to have a guy coming off a crappy season play Santa. John Maine and Mike Pelfrey both assumed the roles after career years, Francoeur earned it with 308 plate appearances far beyond his usual production. Somewhat predictably, all three regressed the following season. Pelfrey also suffered at the hands of a terrible defense behind him.

Benson’s case is unique, since his curse was only having a wife who thought it appropriate to show up to a children’s charity event wearing nearly nothing.

What happened to Mike Cameron probably makes the best argument for the existence of a curse, since it’s not often you see gruesome head-to-head collisions on a baseball field. But then, the Mets did ask Cameron to shift to a new position after the 2004 campaign.

And then there’s David Wright, who played Santa after 2006 and went on to have the best season of his career in 2007. Turns out legitimately excellent players are immune from the curse.

I am a bit disappointed that the Mets didn’t go with my recommendation.

The great N.Y. media paradox

Ryan had already set these gasbags off last week, offending their sensitive souls, when he had the onions to compare his team’s “Monday Night Football” defeat to the Bears’ 38-24 “MNF” loss to Miami in 1985. Such blasphemy. How dare Ryan compare his team to the ’85 Bears, his critics raged.

First, they should all calm down. Then they should take their own advice and shut up.

Where is their imagination – and sense of humor? More importantly, do those clearly encouraging Ryan to channel his inner Mangini get it? If Ryan ever attaches a filter to his mouth, a quote-gushing machine suddenly goes dry. If he tones it down he would also be telling his team he’s a two-bit phony.

Bob Raissman, N.Y. Daily News.

Here, Raissman pretty much nails the great N.Y. media paradox. An athlete or coach keeps quiet and he’s deemed aloof or incoherent or otherwise scorned for his inability to create good copy. An athlete or coach speaks up and says interesting things and eventually his words are thrown back in his face.

The good news is it doesn’t really matter at all. When the Jets are winning, Jets fans will love Ryan. When they’re losing, fans will question him. The N.Y. media in this equation is essentially Samneric, operating in lockstep, drifting with the tide.

Don’t you know I’m Loko?

Still, nothing will replace Four Loko for some.

“[It’s] something that came and went. It’s sort of a mysterious ghost,” said Ryder Ripps, who organized a Four Loko vigil in Union Square last month. “We were enamored with it. It’s kind of like it died for its sins.”

Theresa Juva, amNY.

I believe this man just vaguely compared Four Loko to Jesus.

Today is the last day to purchase Four Loko legally in New York, so stock up if you’re into mixing dangerous amounts of caffeine with lots of booze and you’re too lazy to mix Red Bull and vodka.

I tried Four Loko for the first time a couple weeks ago, just out of curiosity. It’s disgusting. I had hoped to at least once drink a full can of it, only to see what would happen to me. Science experiment! I don’t drink all that often and I recently cut back on caffeine, so I figured I’d be particularly susceptible to its charms. After tasting it, I’m skeptical I’d be able to get through 24 ounces of it.

Still, it seems too big a coincidence that I should have a family function to attend with my in-laws tonight, the very same night Four Loko is last available. What could possibly go wrong?

Just stop listening

I hoped to avoid the issue altogether but I’ve gotten a few emails about it so here goes: Apparently Mike Francesa is ripping the Mets on his radio show, raving about how they need to make a big splash this offseason or whatever, yelling about the whole ridiculous “small-market Sandy” thing.

This naturally irritates many rational Mets fans, since rational Mets fans know that for a variety of reasons none of the available big splashes seems to make a lot of sense for a team with a massive payroll that’s looking to become a sustainable winner. I could try to figure out Francesa’s motivation in ripping the Mets, work to decipher whether there’s some sort of grudge at play or if it has something to do with his medium or if he really just doesn’t know what he’s talking about, but really, who cares?

If you are bothered by what Mike Francesa has to say, I have an amazing solution: Stop listening to Mike Francesa.

I did it myself a few years ago; it’s great. Life is complicated enough on its own, we don’t need to opt in to situations we find stressful.

I happen to think his show is massively entertaining, which is why I listened to it with some frequency for a time and probably why so many people still pay attention even as it frustrates them. But at some point I found it difficult to rationalize the fact that someone working with all the same information I had could come to such massively different conclusions. And I realized I always had the option to listen to James Brown instead.

The new excitement

Subtlety and patience. In the overwrought world of New York baseball, the public is not conditioned to celebrate those qualities, particularly in the wintertime.

High-profile rumors and signings drive talk radio passion and sell newspapers, and the Mets have abstained during these winter meetings. In the process, they have begun to reveal just how radical (for New York) Sandy Alderson’s approach will be, as he tries to impose order on inherited chaos. While the Yankees and Red Sox chased Cliff Lee and Carl Crawford, and the Washington Nationals, of all teams, drove a truck full of money to Jayson Werth’s front door, Alderson this week signed reliever D.J. Carrasco, catcher Ronny Paulino and pitcher Boof Bonser.

– Andy Martino, N.Y. Daily News.

OK, here’s the disconnect here: To me, subtlety and patience are exciting. Sandy Alderson’s radical approach is, well, radical.

Big splashy offseason moves stopped being exciting once they started being both predictable and harmful. And certainly, they inspire passion. But often, that means passionate explanations about why the big splashy offseason move will ultimately hurt the Mets.

So Ronny Paulino, DJ Carrasco, Dusty Ryan, Boof Bonser and Brad Emaus don’t sell papers or make for entertaining talk radio. Who f#$@ing cares? That’s on the papers and talk radio for not figuring out how to drum up interest in some legitimately interesting moves, even if they’re not big names, big deals and big money. Write about the big picture. Focus on the economics. Figure something out.

And for what it’s worth, here at SNY.tv, our traffic is as good as its ever been. Our video streams — those goofy clips you see here with me sitting at the desk all unkempt and everything — have shot through the roof this offseason. I don’t think that’s all due to Sandy Alderson, but I certainly don’t think it’s all due to my boyish good looks and spectacular hair, either.

Seems to me like Alderson and his regime at the very least indicate a change in the way things are done around Flushing, and after all we’ve been through the last few seasons, change itself inspires plenty of enthusiasm.

And as far as I’m concerned, operating a team with the intent to sell papers and dominate talk-radio gaga will never, ever be as exciting as operating a team with the intent to win ballgames.

Mets add dudes

The Mets selected pitcher Pedro Beato and infielder Brad Emaus in the Major League portion of the Rule 5 Draft today.

A former first-round pick, Beato apparently throws hard, though he hasn’t struck out a whole lot of guys in the Minors. He pitched as a starter in the Orioles’ system without much success from 2006 to 2009, but flourished after a move to the Double-A bullpen in 2010. In 59 2/3 innings over 43 appearances, Beato enjoyed career bests in K:BB, WHIP and ERA. He should compete for a role in the Mets’ bullpen in Spring Training.

Beato was born on Oct. 27, 1986 — the same day as Jon Niese, and the last time the Mets won the World Series.

Emaus seems the more intriguing pickup. As Sam Page pointed out, Emaus is a favorite of Baseball Prospectus’ prospects expert Kevin Goldstein, who wrote that he “just plays the game right” after his 2008 campaign in High-A ball. Emaus took a step backwards in 2009, but returned to form with a strong .874 OPS across Double- and Triple-A in 2010. It should be noted that his Triple-A numbers were probably a bit inflated by the hitter-friendly Pacific Coast League, but his high walk rate and ability to make contact bode well for his future.

Emaus will be 25 on Opening Day. Goldstein said his ceiling was as a solid everyday second baseman, and he should have the opportunity to compete for that role come Spring Training. But as Toby Hyde pointed out, he has no experience playing shortstop and played more third base than second in 2010.

For more on both, check out Page at Amazin’ Avenue, and Toby and Michael Diaz at MetsMinorLeagueBlog.com.

Carl Crawford stuff

Carl Crawford is a very nice baseball player. He gets on base at a solid rate, hits a few home runs, steals bases at an excellent clip, and plays fantastic defense in left field. Due to his all-around contributions, Crawford probably ranks among the top 20 position players in baseball.

When he signed a seven-year, $142 million deal with the Red Sox last night, Crawford became the seventh-highest paid player in baseball. It should be noted that of the six players ahead of him — Alex Rodriguez, Ryan Howard, Joe Mauer, C.C. Sabathia, Johan Santana and Mark Teixeira — at least half of their contracts already appear to be overpays and potential long-term albatrosses.

Based on Fangraphs’ WAR — which heavily values Crawford’s defense — the newest Red Sox has been worth between $25 and $28 million the last two seasons, meaning he’ll likely be worth his contract for at least the next couple of years. But since much of Crawford’s game is based on his legs, it’s no sure thing he’ll be providing ample return on his contract in its waning years, when he’ll be in his mid-30s.

The Red Sox’ position is defensible. They managed 89 wins in baseball’s toughest division despite a rash of injuries in 2010, and they traded for Adrian Gonzalez earlier this offseason. Boston must capitalize on the years it has with one of baseball’s most valuable assets — a duo of excellent young pitchers in Jon Lester and Clay Buchholz. The additions of Crawford and Gonzalez make the team obvious favorites for postseason play in the next few years, and flags fly forever and all that.

Matt Cerrone suggested recently — in a post I can’t currently dig up — that top free agents this offseason could be getting such huge contracts because of teams’ recent trend toward locking up young players to long-term deals. That creates more competition for the few top-flight players that do hit the market, so contracts become more expensive. Supply and demand and whatnot.

So by that rationale, Crawford and Jayson Werth are not wild overpays, teams just know that the new price of free agents is high, and teams have more flexibility to sign free agents to fill holes because they’ve got many of their homegrown players locked down to reasonably team-friendly deals. The Sox, for example, have Lester, Kevin Youkilis and Dustin Pedroia under contract for several years at below-market rates.

Anyway, if that’s true, it would stand to reason that at some point the market should start turning back around. If Mike Stanton or Jason Heyward sees the type of money that Werth and Crawford are getting on the open market, he could opt to wait out free agency instead of letting his team buy out his arbitration years and the few seasons beyond. That means less money in the near-term and significantly more risk to the player, of course — one injury could jeopardize a life’s worth of money — but as the reward grows greater, it’s hard to imagine more players not taking that risk.

And then eventually, I guess, the cycle repeats itself.

In the here and now, I wonder how Crawford’s contract affects Jose Reyes’ status with the Mets. From 2006-2008, Reyes was a very comparable player to Crawford, only playing a premium position. He always says he loves New York and he wants to be a Met, but if he returns to form in 2011, he will likely stand to make a ton of money on the open market.

The team should probably work to lock up Reyes to an extension as soon as it determines he’s healthy and productive and apt to be the shortstop in Flushing for the long-term. If he’s playing well, Reyes will likely become more expensive as he approaches free agency and as he and his agent begin to consider the offseason payoffs to players like Crawford and Werth.