Sandwich of the Week

Katherine’s excellent Sandwich of the Week map has been, well, compromised. A well-meaning reader removed all the sandwiches he wasn’t planning on eating without realizing he was editing the public version of the map. I emailed Google to see if they have any sort of cache for these things, but they never responded.

I added a few of them back, but if you want to help out by finding an old sandwich review from this site’s archive and adding it to the map, well, that’d be very cool of you. Just follow Katherine’s color code and copy relevant info from the review into the description part. And I realize you don’t owe me anything, of course. But if every sandwich-eating TedQuarters reader helps out with just one map marker, it should be complete in no time. Then we all have a map with which to chart sandwiches I’ve eaten, and obviously that’s something you want.

The sandwich: The Original 1762 from Earl of Sandwich, 52nd street between 5th and 6th in Manhattan.

The construction: Roast beef, cheddar cheese and horseradish sauce — mayonnaise and horseradish — on house-made bread.

Important background information: The Earl of Sandwich, you may know, is a chain owned by the 11th Earl of Sandwich, a descendant of John Montagu, the actual Earl of Sandwich credited with inventing the meal. The store claims The Original 1762 is the sandwich for which all sandwiches are named, though I’m skeptical that the original had so much mayonnaise. It is possible, though, since the Wikipedia says mayonnaise first made its way around Europe after a French victory over the British in a Seven Years War battle at Minorca in 1756.

You hear that a lot, incidentally: The cross-cultural exchange of foodstuffs during wartime. And I wonder how that goes down. Did soldiers storm through villages raiding pantries for unfamiliar condiments? Like, “Hey, this might turn out to be useful on a dish someone will invent six years from now!”

But then I suppose if I were a soldier in 1756, that’s exactly how I’d play it. John Montagu was a military type, and since we know him to be a culinary pioneer it’s entirely possible he asked his underlings to bring him any new sauces they pillaged.

What it looks like:

How it tastes: Like horseradish sauce, mostly. Which is fine — the horseradish sauce is good, assuming you like the commingled flavors of horseradish and mayonnaise. But it’s by far the strongest taste on the sandwich.

The beef is there and adds bulk to the thing, but it could just as easily be sliced chicken or turkey or anything meaty and a little chewy that can be drenched in horseradish sauce. Earl of Sandwich toasts all of its sandwiches, so the cheese is warm and melty, adding a nice texture if not enough flavor to distinguish it from the sauce.

The bread is delicious. From the looks of it, they put it onto the toaster-belt thing slightly undercooked, so it comes out tasting fresh-baked and with a nice, toasty crust. Easily the highlight of this sandwich, and, for that matter, the two other sandwiches I’ve had from The Earl of Sandwich since it opened a couple weeks ago.

What it’s worth: It costs $5.99, which is a very good deal for lunch in this part of Midtown.

How it rates: 65 out of 100. This is better than everything I’ve had from the big-name chain sandwich stores, so relative to the competition it’s great. But it’s a bit too monotonous to hold up to any of this city’s finest offerings.

 

 

Sandwiches of Citi Field: Pastrami on rye

New to the Citi Field menu this year, the pastrami sandwich is available at a concession stand on the Field Level concourse behind left field. It’s also available elsewhere, but I’m pretty sure this is the one you want.

Every sandwich is made with meat hand-sliced fresh from the brisket, weighed out on a scale to six ounces — plenty of meat for a sandwich on regular-sized bread*. The guy making my sandwich then squirted mustard on one slice of rye and pressed it up against the other, ensuring even mustard distribution across both slices. That’s going the extra mile. Oh, and it comes with a pickle:

I don’t normally eat a lot of pastrami, but even as a novice I can tell this is a hell of a pastrami sandwich. The big challenge I’ve always found in cooking brisket is keeping it moist, but that’s not an issue here. This is meatjuice-dripping-down-your-arms moist. Tasty too, by no means overseasoned but with the flavor of coriander lingering after every bite.

The bread is soft — maybe too soft. I generally prefer rye that’s chewy around the crust, and this wasn’t exactly that. It didn’t take anything away from the sandwich, but I think good, strong, flavorful rye can often add something. The mustard tasted like mustard and the pickle was predictably amazing.

It’s $10.50, which is a lot. But then the touristy deli stops in Manhattan charge way more. They also give way more meat, but that seems like more of a gimmick than an effort at a well-proportioned sandwich.

*- Speaking of which: When I worked at the deli we were told to aim for about 1/3 pound of meat for sandwiches on bread or regular rolls and 1/2 pound for sandwiches on heroes. We never measured it out because with a couple weeks’ worth of meat-slicing experience it becomes pretty easy to eyeball amounts. I always tended to go a little bit over on my sandwiches, figuring people could always take meat off the sandwich.

But one time, in my first week, a guy asked for an “American.” That wasn’t on the menu, but he meant the standard ham-turkey-roast beef-cheese combo familiar from six-foot catering heroes. I kind of lost focus while slicing the guy’s ham and gave him about a full sandwich’s worth, and the roast beef we had was tough to slice thin, so he wound up with a lot of that. Then I wanted to make it look even so I gave him a lot of turkey too.

He wound up with a full pound of meat on his sandwich. I know because he took it back and showed it to my boss after he opened it, and I got my first (and only) stern talking-to about sandwich construction. Looking back on it now: Why’d you sell me out like that, guy? I gave you a pound of meat! You could take half of it off the sandwich and have enough to make another massive sandwich later in the day. C’mon, guy.

Sandwiches of Citi Field: Pulled chicken sandwich

You might not know about this one. I’ve only seen it available in the Caesar’s Club, conveniently located right behind the press box. It may also exist at some of the other clubs at Citi Field, but I haven’t spent much time in any of those.

Speaking of, though: If you’re a sandwich enthusiast and Citi Field regular and you know of some less-heralded sandwiches available in odd spots in the park, let me know. I’m going to eat every one eventually. I’ve got my eye on the pastrami and the Mex burger, and I know there’s a Reuben at the Caesar’s club too. I hope all will be better than this:

That’s pulled chicken, cheddar cheese and barbecue sauce on French bread. I ate this one near the end of the Mets’ double-header with the Braves last week and it had clearly been sitting under a heat lamp for a while. But even knowing how it would have been better earlier in the game, this was still a pretty disappointing sandwich.

The bread was OK — toasty, bready — and the chicken was reasonably moist considering the circumstances. But I could hardly taste anything besides the cloyingly sweet barbecue sauce. I should have gussied this one up with some toppings, but by that point they were clearly trying to shut the toppings stations down for the night and I didn’t want to make anyone’s life more difficult.

Speaking of chicken sandwiches available at Citi Field and toppings, though: On Friday I tried the fried chicken sandwich from Blue Smoke again and topped it off with fresh jalapenos and pickles. It was unbelievable — better even than my wife’s pulled pork sandwich, which has never been as good as the first time I had it.

Twitter Q&A Part 3: The Search for Twitter Q&A Part 2

Remember when they used to say they were making Space Balls 3: The Search for Space Balls 2? That would have been awesome. Instead I’ve co-opted the title for this post.

OK, I know everyone always says an elephant with a shark’s face, but I’m going to go with a flying polar bear that spins spiderwebs.

Because how sweet would that be? It could maul you from land, air or sea, and also set sticky traps so it could eat you later just in case it wasn’t around to maul you when you happened to walk by its dam. Oh yeah, it would also build dams and live in lodges like a beaver.

Problem is, the protection offered by the lodge and the convenience of the web would probably allow the Flying Polar Bear that Spins Spiderwebs to get pretty lazy, as is the bear’s wont. And so you’d just have these lodges full of fat, lethargic killing machines filling up on all the good stuff they collected in the web outside instead of fully exploiting all their awesome and terrifying powers.

Seriously though I don’t think we spend enough time talking about how great spiders are. I’m not trying to sound like some creepy bio teacher with a big collection of arachnids or anything, but man, that’s one bug that figured it out.

Though it’s tempting to imagine TedQuarters favorites Lucas Duda and Val Pascucci on a defensive line, I happen to know that Willie Harris turned down a football scholarship to Florida State to play pro baseball after high school. So it almost has to be him, even if Bobby Parnell might make a nice successor to Brett Favre as the NFL’s best quarterback with an awesome arm that doesn’t really know where it’s going.

If I didn’t know that about Harris, I’d say Jose Reyes could make for a pretty fine wide receiver. Good size for it, great speed, good hands. It pains me to imagine Reyes going up for a pass across the middle though, knowing what Ray Lewis might do to him.

As for Jets that could be Mets, I’d love to see what Darrelle Revis looked like in center field. I’ll just assume he’d be an awesome hitter, too, because what can’t Revis do?

I’m not interested in crapping on any small businesses, so I’ll stick to chains. And I’ll amount that I will probably eat at several of these places again. Sometimes you wind up in a group of people going someplace and you don’t want to be that guy so you just roll with it. Anyway, here we go:

– Subway: Many of my negative feelings for Subway come from its haphazard use of the term “sandwich artist,” which I believe should be reserved for true sandwich artists. That’s not to say there aren’t some potential sandwich artists working at Subway, but I know from talking to ex-Subway employees that they’re given set amounts of each ingredient to include on sandwiches (four half-slices of cheese, eight olives, etc.), which seems more like sandwich building than sandwich artistry.

– Pizza Hut: The (literally) red-headed stepchild of Yum! brands and worst of the major pizza chains. The last time I ate pizza from Pizza Hut I was three weeks deep into a trip to China and desperate for familiar food, but all that did was remind me that I don’t much care for Pizza Hut. Notable exception: Breadsticks.

– Taco Time: Never again.

– TGI Friday’s: The younger brother of one of my best friends worked at Friday’s for a long time. Since his brother could comp us stuff, my friend always wanted to go there. Everything they serve at Friday’s tastes primarily like Friday’s, and after enough trips you grow to really dislike that taste.

– Hale and Hearty Soups: Similar to Friday’s in that my distaste for it grew due to too-frequent visits, this time perpetrated by some work friends at an old job. For some reason I tend to think of soup as a vaguely healthy lunch option even when it’s chowder or bisque, so Hale and Hearty always burned me twice: What you think is going to a healthy alternative to pizza turns out to be just as bad for you, plus it’s so greasy that you can’t even think about actually tasty food for hours afterward.

 

Twitter Q&A-fashioned product

Have I previously mentioned my feelings for Oreos here or is Gerald just making an educated guess?

Either way, Oreos are f#@$ing amazing. If someone offered me Oreos before a social gathering — let’s say a wedding, something where there’ll be lots of pictures — I’d first ask if they’re Double Stufs. And then regardless of the answer, I’d probably eat a ton of Oreos.

The only thing that might stop me would be if I knew for a fact there would be amazing food at the wedding and I could conjure up enough will-power to avoid ruining my dinner (or cocktail hour) with cookies. But even if that happened, I’d probably stash a few Oreos in my suit pocket just in case. Wedding cake often sucks, and if there aren’t going to be many other dessert options you’re going to want those Oreos for the ride home.

Of course it’s worth noting that I’m married now and no longer at all dedicated to convincing strangers to make out with me at or after social events. Still, any woman so superficial as to reject a man because of a little chocolate on his teeth doesn’t deserve to love me.

This is a good question, and if I could answer it definitively I’d be… well, smarter than I am currently. I’m never eager to diagnose mental issues in professional athletes that I do not know personally. And I’d remind anyone doing so that players will almost always look less confident and more crazy when they’re not performing. No one appears to have the much-sought closer mentality when he’s blowing leads.

The command issue is an easier one to tackle: Yes, he has a command issue. Parnell has walked 4.1 batters per nine innings for his career and 4.4 on the season. There are plenty of effective relievers who can work in that range, but most of them strike out even more batters than Parnell does — in this season and across his career.

And practically none of those guys allow hits at the rate Parnell does — steadily above 10 per nine innings for his entire career. As Patrick Flood has pointed out, it doesn’t seem to make sense for Parnell to allow so many hits on balls in play, since he generally yields a high rate of groundballs. Tough as it is to believe, it’s still too early in Parnell’s career to say for certain that it will keep up and it’s not an awful run of bad luck (compounded, of course, by the walks).

The most frustrating part about watching Parnell, for me, is the utter predictability of his pitch sequences. I have no good way of quantifying that relative to other pitchers, but I feel like I can almost always guess what’s coming. Part of that is obviously because he really only throws two pitches.

I wonder, though, if there’s something else to Parnell’s much-discussed habit of struggling every time he’s given a more important role. Could it be that by the time Parnell’s role is expanded, he has pitched so well and so often in the middle innings that he’s doomed to fail? He has pitched in 10 games in less than 14 days since Aug. 29, including six times in seven days from Aug. 29-Sept. 4.

Obviously I don’t know that’s the problem. Plus even if it is, a team needs to be able to count on its late-inning relievers to shoulder heavy workloads for certain stretches.

Sandwiches I am proud of

For better or worse (mostly for better), I’m not long for the suburbs. More on that will likely follow once I hit the point at which moving and the moving process dominates my life, but for now, here’s a sandwich I made and ate at home in Westchester yesterday:

That’s smoked chicken with barbecue sauce, pickles and mariachi peppers. The roll is what Shop-Rite calls ciabatta, though it was way softer than most breads I’ve had with that name.

We had a package of chicken thighs in the freezer that I wanted to get rid of, so I thawed it out and smoked them over a mix of oak and cherry wood chunks. Before they were finished, I brushed on some store-bought, mustard-based barbecue sauce to give ’em a little bit of a glaze. When they were done I sliced them up to better distribute them across the roll.

The pickles I made from cucumbers from our garden a few weeks ago. They have aged well.

The peppers also came from the backyard. I chose the mariachi variety over the others we have because a) they’re really good — sweet, flavorful and a touch spicy, b) they’re the crunchiest of the peppers at my disposal and I wanted to give the sandwich some more texture, and c) apparently they are about the highest-yielding vegetable imaginable and I have to find something to do with all these mariachi peppers.

The sandwich was delicious. The chicken was moist with a strong but not overpowering smoke flavor. The sauce, pickles and peppers added the right balance of sweet and tangy flavors and crunchy texture. The bread was merely passable, but did nothing to detract from the sandwich at large.

I have spent a good deal of my free time the past couple of years endeavoring cooking projects enabled by the outdoor space we have for smoking meat and growing vegetables. Since we’re unlikely to find a place with a backyard in Manhattan, I imagine I’ll have to give up homemade sandwiches like this one.

It’s for better, like I said — there’ll be a shorter commute, way more things to do, places to eat that are open after 9 p.m., and sidewalks. But I figure I should spend the next few months making the best food I can with the equipment I will soon no longer have at my disposal.

Contentious wiener lawsuit not what you think

The wiener war began after Northfield-based Kraft allegedly ran ads claiming “Oscar Mayer Jumbo Beef Franks beat Ball Park and Hebrew National in a national taste test.”

Downers Grove-based Sara Lee said the ad and similar promotions that ran in magazines, stores and on the “Wienermobile” were misleading and based on an allegedly flawed taste test that didn’t include condiment or bun choices, possibly affecting flavor.

Kraft denied the allegations and filed its own lawsuit against Sara Lee, alleging that the company was misusing an out-of-date ChefsBest award to promote its hot dogs as “America’s best franks.”

Chicago Tribune.

I’m not sure I’d ever choose either to be honest. I’m a Boar’s Head man because I keep my hot dogs classy. And drenched in ketchup.

Via Tom.

Picklemeister

I made pickles a couple weeks ago. It’s not a very good story. Our garden produces cucumbers at a way faster rate than my wife and I can eat them. I bring them to work sometimes and give them out, but I think people think I’m weird for distributing cucumbers in the office. On Saturday I gave about 15 cucumbers out to the guys I play baseball with, but by now we have a whole refrigerator drawer full of cucumbers again. It’s nuts.

Half the cucumbers we get are the type that’s good for pickling, and since pickling preserves cucumbers and pickles are totally delicious, turning our excess cucumbers into pickles seemed an obvious decision.

There are many pickle recipes on the Internet and I used one of them. I can’t find it now. It was extremely easy. I put water, vinegar, salt, sugar, dill, garlic and pickling spices in a big Tupperware container then left in our refrigerator for two weeks. I threw in a kung pao pepper from our garden too.

The hardest part by far was waiting for the pickles to pickle the first few days. But then after about a week, the container got pushed to the back of my fridge and mind and I stopped feeling the bizarre need to incessantly check on them as if anything was going to happen.

It turns out, the pickled pickles look like pickles:

Turns out they taste like pickles too. Not like overwhelmingly strong pickles, more like the big half-sour deli pickles you get at Ben’s. Pretty delicious, with a really good crispy snap to the skin and a touch of spiciness from the hot pepper.

I’m satisfied. I have successfully decreased the size of my pickle footprint. Thought you should know. I’ve got a line on a pork butt, and I’m looking forward to slicing a couple of these up and using them to top off pulled-pork sandwiches.

 

Sandwiches of Citi Field: Crabcake sandwich

My wife and I hit up Catch of the Day at Citi Field on Sunday as part of my enduring quest to eat and review every sandwich available in the stadium. She got a lobster roll, of which I took a bite. That sandwich will be reviewed here after I’ve discussed it with her at greater lengths. She is a distinguishing eater of sandwiches and trusted source on such matters.

I ordered the crabcake sandwich: A crabcake on a potato bun with tartar sauce. The Catch of the Day menu actually calls it “tarter sauce,” but I follow the Wikipedia’s American English spelling. Either way, whenever I start talking about tartar sauce I inevitably say, “Let the fools have their tar-tar sauce,” in my best C. Montgomery Burns.

The damage is $15:

Crabcake sandwiches always feel a little funny to me, since you’re putting the crabcake on bread but there’s already a lot of bread in that crabcake. No disrespect to bread, of course. And it’s not anything like as strange as shoving a perfectly portable Jamaican beef patty inside a thick hunk of coco bread (which is delicious, it turns out).

The crabcake here is good. It’s not quite as crabmeat-heavy as I’d like, but when I think about it, I’m not sure I’ve ever had a crabcake that was. Maybe they just don’t make ’em that way. And this one maintains a pretty good crab flavor.

The downside to this sandwich is that whoever put it together went very heavy on the tartar sauce, so the whole thing got pretty goopy. The tartar itself is better than the standard deli mayo-mixed-with-relish concoction, but it’s still decidedly tartar sauce: tangy, thinner mayo to complement seafood.

On the whole, this isn’t a bad sandwich. But I’d say that if I were in the mood for seafood and a) I weren’t out to review every sandwich available at Citi Field, b) I could eat a whole lobster roll without getting sick and c) I was willing to spend upwards of $15 on a sandwich at a ballpark, I’d probably opt for the lobster roll instead. The lobster roll is $17, so the markup from real-world price to stadium price seems slimmer than it is on the crabcake, plus you get a good amount of lobster meat. But more on that will follow.

Sandwich of the Week

Let’s get right into it.

The sandwich: Roast Pork Special from Shorty’s on 9th Ave. between 41st and 42nd in Manhattan.

The construction: Thin-sliced roast pork and broccoli rabe with sharp provolone on French bread, served with au jus.

Important background information: This is the second pork cheesesteak I’ve had. The first made the Hall of Fame. It’s a great concept: Pork is delicious, but the only thing that might hold it back on sandwiches is its toughness. Slicing it thin combats the chewiness associated with poorly prepared thick-cut pork chops.

Shorty’s provides the option of sharp or mild provolone. I chose sharp, because subtlety is for chumps and suckers. This… well, more on this to follow.

What it looks like:

How it tastes: Oh my sodium.

I started by pouring about half of the au jus over the sandwich, which might have been my mistake. Between the pork, the au jus, the provolone and whatever the broccoli rabe was cooked in, biting into this thing felt like plowing face first into a giant wall of salt. Still tasty, I should say, but so, so salty.

When I thought about it, I could pick up other flavors: Garlic, oregano, and some of the sharpness of the Parmesan. But tasting the broccoli rabe required either a great deal of focus or separating the vegetable from the rest of the sandwich. That’s a shame, as broccoli rabe is both an underrated and underutilized sandwich topping. Here, its natural flavors were almost entirely obscured by much more aggressive tastes.

Like our man Karl Welzein — referenced here in the last Sandwich of the Week as well — I appreciate bold flavors. But a sandwich needs to be more than a ferocious onslaught of powerful tastes, lest the palate be overwhelmed. A delicate balance must be achieved.

People watch action movies for the massive explosions and white-knuckle chase scenes, but if a movie were just a 120-minute long, mega-budget action sequence, it’d probably get boring no matter how many things blew up. I fear this sandwich drifted into Michael Bay territory.

Meh, that’s a bit too harsh. The pork was tender and juicy, the bread was fresh, and the sandwich-eating experience as a whole was an enjoyable one. It’s a fine sandwich. It’s just disappointing, since all the elements here should add up to a great sandwich.

What it’s worth: It cost $10. It was a decent-sized sandwich, but I wouldn’t call it a bargain at that rate.

How it rates: 72 out of 100.