Bonus sandwich: Donut Ice Cream Sandwich!

The wife and I were walking along 9th Ave. on Friday evening and spotted a sign in a window boasting Donut Ice Cream sandwiches. The picture on the sign made it clear that they meant ice cream sandwiched between two halves of a donut, and not a sandwich made out of donut-flavored ice cream, though I’m sure that would be delicious too.

Anyway, obviously I knew I had to have that, so after dinner we stopped by the place — Holey Cream, on 9th and 53rd.

The guys behind the counter were extremely liberal with samples, which was cool since they had a lot of worthwhile ice cream flavors to try. When I asked to order a donut ice cream sandwich, though, the guy asked if I could wait two minutes.

Since there was no one else in the store, I had no idea what was up. Turned out the dude was looking out for me; about a minute later he pulled from somewhere — we smelt it before we saw it — a tray of freshly baked piping hot donuts. Sweet.

You first pick an icing for the donut. I went with chocolate, because I sometimes find vanilla icing on donuts a little too sweet and I knew I’d be stuffing the thing with ice cream besides.

Second, you pick a topping for the donut. I went with crumbled Oreos, because duh.

Last, you choose an ice cream. Here’s where I screwed up a bit, I think. I went with their red velvet flavor based on the delicious, cream-cheesy sample I tasted, but without realizing that there were big hunks of legit red velvet cake in the red velvet ice cream.

On any other occasion, that would be a major win. If it were a hot fudge sundae or something, obviously you want the cake in there. But in this particular instance, since the donut was providing all the cake I needed, the extra cake in the ice cream threw off the ice cream:cake ratio a little bit.

And look: Let it never be said that there can be too much cake. One of my favorite quotes of all time comes from my buddy Ripps, who said: “I’m going to die someday. And when I die, on my deathbed, I’m going to say, ‘I should have had more cake.'”

But great sandwiches are all about proportions and I botched this. For this I am a bit ashamed. Also, the red velvet ice cream was particularly sweet even by ice cream standards, and since there were donuts and icing and Oreo crumbles also in play, I might have picked something a little more straightforward.

All that said, the thing was still amazing. It was excellent ice cream on top of a fresh donut. The wife immediately advocated it for the Sandwich Hall of Fame, but after some consideration I talked her out of it. That pantheon is reserved for perfection and near-perfection, and there were some clear flaws in this sandwich — even if they were all my fault.

The good news is that it’s fully customizable, so I’ll be able to take a shot at a Hall of Fame sandwich next time I go, which will probably happen the next time I pass the place.

Sandwich Hall of Fame now a thing

Check out the sidebar. I think I got all of them, but if you remember any Hall of Fame sandwiches I missed, let me know and I’ll add ’em.

I made the executive decision to put the heretofore unrated Defonte’s of Brooklyn hot roast beef sandwich in the hall. Call it a Veteran’s Committee selection. I came to the decision based on a combination of the many strong recommendations from sandwich enthusiasts I trust with my own growing desire to eat another and recollection that — in addition to having eaten the sandwich at an inopportune moment, I was a bit sick the day I tried it. And it was still really delicious. So I assume that’s a worthy Hall of Fame sandwich in optimal conditions.

If you hover over a link, the description will provide the name and location of each sandwich’s purveyor. Or just click through for full details of the sandwich. And also because you love giving me more page views.

I wish I could figure out some way to make plaques, but I don’t think it’d be fair to the sandwiches to depict them in bronze. Also, I’m extremely lazy. So this will have to do for now.

To make room for the Sandwich Hall of Fame, I’ve killed the Twitter feed widget, which never worked right for some reason. But I’ve placed the Sandwich Hall of Fame below Embarrassing Things About Cole Hamels, because nothing in the Sandwich Hall of Fame directly relates to anything embarrassing about Cole Hamels.

Sandwich of the Week

Early Sandwich of the Week this week because I took a break from them on vacation, because I ate an excellent sandwich last night, and to coincide with Hall of Fame balloting results.

The sandwich: Cemita al Pastor from Tulcingo del Valle, 47th St. and 10th Ave. in Manhattan.

The construction: Seasoned pork, pineapple, Oaxaca cheese, refried beans, papalo and chipotle sauce on a sesame-seed bun.

Important background information: Tulcingo del Valle spans two storefronts on 10th. The north half, which I only saw because I needed to use the bathroom, is a clean, cozily lit restauranty-looking restaurant. The south half, where I ate, clearly used to be a deli and still kind of is. It has table service, but it still has a refrigerator running the length of one wall in the Manhattan deli style. It even has some refrigerator sections with sliding doors and some with those weird dangly clear plastic things that I’ve never seen anywhere but delis in New York city.

What it looks like:

How it tastes: Good. The thick shreds of pork are moist, fatty and flavorful. There is enough pork to fully cover the bun, it’s hardly overstuffed. The bread was flaky on the outside and absorbent enough on the inside to soak up the sandwich’s delicious mix of sauces, juices and greases but maintain its structural integrity.

Oaxacan cheese, it turns out, is awfully similar to (the same as?) queso blanco I used to buy in the supermarket in Prospect Heights. For the uninitiated, it’s similar in flavor and texture to mozzarella, only perhaps a bit chewier — which worked on the sandwich.

The avocado was soft, ripe and delicious, and, along with the cheese, added a creamy quality to the sandwich. I thought the papalo was cilantro until I reread the Grub Street Top 101 Sandwiches post this morning. It has a sharp, clean bite that went well with the remarkable spiciness of the chipotle sauce.

About that: Whoa nelly. I generally enjoy spicy food. I order my wings hot or extra hot and I pour Cholula on many of my lunches. Actually, when the waitress dropped off my sandwich at Tulcingo Del Valle and walked away, I briefly regretted not remembering to ask for hot sauce.

But there was no shortage of heat on this sandwich. The plentiful chipotle sauce was hearty, smoky and fiery hot, and tasted less like a vinegary Tabasco-style sauce and more like eating an actual fire. Still a delicious wood-burning fire, mind you, but perhaps a bit painful. This sandwich might have actually been a touch too spicy. By the time I got to the second half of the thing, my mouth, throat and esophagus were burning.

I didn’t even know there was pineapple in the sandwich until I revisited the Grub Street post. I believe that it might have been on there because there was a mess of ingredients and an explosion of delicious flavors in this sandwich, but it was hard to distinguish any pineapples with the eye or taste buds.

What it’s worth: The Cemita al Pastor and a soda cost me $10 plus tip. Plus it was about a 20-minute walk there from my office and a half hour from the restaurant to Grand Central to get home. I always enjoy a good post-sandwich stroll, though.

How it rates: If the Sandwich Hall of Fame were determined by a group of voters instead of my own whims, I imagine the Cemita al Pastor would not immediately earn entry. Yeah, it had some great elements, but ultimately that chipotle sauce hurts its case by physically hurting the consumer.

But then people who really like spicy food will say, “Certainly the Cemita al Pastor deserves to be in the Hall of Fame. Look at the inspired, delicious ingredients! And that spiciness is part of what makes it so good.”

And then some people will be all, “Yeah, you know what? You’re right. Come to think of it, before the pain set in, that was a really delicious sandwich.”

But others will be like, “What? Don’t let them talk you into it; that sandwich was too spicy! No sandwich should be too spicy to finish. Look at the bacon cheddar burger from Bill’s Bar and Burger — now that’s a Hall of Famer! Sure, perhaps it’s not the most original sandwich in the world, but it’s consistently very good and always a joy to eat.”

And then spiceheads and their sympathizers in this case will say, “A good bacon cheeseburger that’s not even Top 5 in the city for the Hall of Fame? Your standards are all wrong and you are stupid.”

And then the remaining people hellbent on keeping the Cemita al Pastor out of the Sandwich Hall of Fame will say, “I’m stupid? You’re the cretin with an indelicate palate!”

And then further arguing and more heated name-calling will continue until most people ultimately realize the Cemita al Pastor is probably a deserving hall of famer. 91 out of 100.

Food trucks getting anchored

Reader Daniel passes along the news that two of the food trucks from the Vendys — the Souvlaki GR truck (2010 Vendys Rookie of the Year) and Schnitzel & Things, purveyors of a Hall of Fame sandwich — will open storefront locations in Manhattan. The Souvlaki GR restaurant will be in the Lower East Side and Schnitzel & Things will be at 46th and 3rd, not an unreasonable walk from my office for a sandwich of that caliber.

I say awesome. In both cases, the original truck will stay on the road, so it’s not like it means anyone will have more limited access to the food. Naturally, whenever anyplace expands from a single establishment to multiple ones, there’s concern about quality control. But these are two very good food trucks, and you have to figure if they didn’t care a lot about quality they wouldn’t be making such delicious food.

In the Schnitzel & Things SOTW post, I wondered about the future of food trucks. This is not one of the directions I imagined it going, but hey, cool. Perhaps food trucks will prove a legitimate way for restaurateurs to test out their shtick before investing in real estate. You figure it’s great for marketing, too. After all, I’ll now go to the Schnitzel & Things restaurant because I already know their food is good because they drove it near my office and dangled it in front of my face.

Oh, and for those concerned about the food-truck folks spreading themselves too thing I’ll add this: In 2001, on a drive from DC to Virginia to buy me a computer desk for my junior year of college, my dad and I discovered Five Guys. At the time, I believe there were only three locations — all in Northern Virginia. The burgers were delicious and fully customizable, the fries were peanut-oily and cajuny, the decor was white, red and black. I was so impressed that my roommates and I made a habit out of the 20-minute drive. There was also a Krispy Kreme right nearby, and from the start of that year ’til my graduation I believe I put on around 30 pounds.

My will power is a little stronger now, but Five Guys is no less awesome. And there are like a billion Five Guys all over the country. So there’s that.

Incidentally, in researching the number of Five Guys around the country, I discovered that one will soon open in White Plains, not far from my home. So look for me getting significantly fatter in the coming months.

Behold: The invasive species diet

James Gorman at the Times introduces readers to a nascent movement to eat invasive species into submission. I’m all for it, but first I have to move someplace where the pig has no natural predators, then set a bunch of pigs free. It’s something of a long-term plan.

Apropos of almost nothing, this seems like as good a place as any to mention that my sister and brother-in-law gave me an assortment of exotic meats and african mango for Christmas. So expect some write-ups about said meats in the coming weeks, once I eat my way through all the leftovers from the past few days. And if anyone has a good antelope recipe, send it along.

No. 3 Top Thing of 2010: Ricobene’s Breaded Steak sandwich

On Sept. 5, 2010, my life forever changed. I ate a breaded steak sandwich from Ricobene’s in Chicago. Here’s what I wrote a few days later:

When I finished, I stumbled out to the curb, dizzy and delirious. A couple of cops pulled up, and instinct told me to run — I felt like I had just done something illegal. I couldn’t, though. I couldn’t bring myself to leave the front of the restaurant.

I knew I had to leave Chicago the next morning, but I tried to consider ways I could have another breaded steak sandwich before I did. I thought about walking back in and ordering another right then even though the coma was already setting in.

Not knowing what else to do, I tweeted a few nonsensical things. Playing with my phone gave me an excuse to keep standing there.

It started raining. I kept standing there. I knew I probably looked like a crazy person. I didn’t care. I was a crazy person. I was standing outside a restaurant, right next to a live-poultry market and under the freeway overpass, in some odd area of a city I don’t know because I couldn’t tear myself away after eating an inconceivably good sandwich.

Some three and a half months later, my mouth still waters whenever I remember that sandwich. The tender breaded steak, the sweet marinara, the fiery giardiniera, the cheesy cheese. Just thinking about it frustrates me now because I can’t have one whenever I want. I try to think of excuses to get back to Chicago. I’m pushing my wife toward pursuing a residency there. The sandwich was that good.

Sometimes I wonder if I could reproduce it myself at home. I have a deep fryer, after all, and certainly I can make marinara. A bunch of places online will deliver hot giardiniera. After bbilko suggested in the comments section that I make Sept. 5 a TedQuarters holiday, I targeted that as the date I should attempt the sandwich. Problem is I want one sooner. Could I pull it off? Would it even come close to the original?

Doubtful. That was one hell of a sandwich, the best I ate this year and among the best I’ve ever eaten. The only reason it fell to No. 3 on the Top 10 Things is that I only had one of them and I destroyed it so quickly, fleeting wonderment. Also because it set the bar for other sandwiches unreasonably high. Someone please open a Ricobene’s franchise in New York.

New York’s most notable burgers

A good compendium of notable area burgers from the folks at Grub Street. Since my wife and I (back when she was my girlfriend) spent a lot of time in search of the city’s best burger, I’m happy to say I’ve eaten a lot of these — 19, to be exact.

Said wife used to judge the hell out of me for frequently ordering burgers in relatively upscale (by our standards) restaurants. But I’ve always held that, since I have high standards and a distinguishing palate for burgers, the burger is like my litmus test for a restaurant. If it’s awesome, I’ll probably go back and try something else. Or maybe just eat the awesome burger again.

Hat tip to Brad for the link.

Sandwich of the Week

Fun fact: Before last Saturday, I had eaten at five of the eight places surveyed on the Travel Channel’s “Sandwich Paradise” show. Nardelli’s, a small Connecticut chain, was the only reasonably local one I hadn’t hit.

So a week ago yesterday, I set out to rectify that. The nearest store is about 45 minutes from TedQuarters in Westchester, but with my wife entrenched in studying for finals and the weather too cold for a baseball game, I figured I’d make the trip.

The sandwich: Italian combo from Nardelli’s, several locations in Connecticut.

The construction: Pruzitini, capicola, salami and provolone on a hero roll with lettuce, Nardelli’s “classic mix” of veggies, olives, mayo and hot sauce.

Things labeled “capicola” in this country vary pretty wildly. Maybe in other countries too, but sadly I’ve only enjoyed things labeled “capicola” in this country. Also, near as I can tell Nardelli’s is the only place on Google selling something called “pruzittini.” I’m going to assume that the cured, chewy meat on the sandwich was the capicola and that Nardelli’s uses legit capicola, not ham cappy. And so then I’ll figure that the ham on the sandwich with the peppery outside — which could probably be mistaken for ham happy — is the pruzitini, since prosciuttini is, near as I understand it, the old-school Italian name for pepper ham, one of my very favorite deli meats.

Important background information: As I may have mentioned, I have very high standards for Italian heroes. At DeBono’s, it was damn-near sacrilege to put mayo on an Italian combo. We would do it, since the customer is always right and everything, but we’d quietly judge the crap out of whoever ordered it. And never, ever would I suggest mayo on any sort of specialty sandwich involving a lot of Italian meats. That’s what oil and balsamic vinegar are for.

Also, being an Italian guy and working in a deli where people frequently come in and order Italian heroes sets you up to make a lot of sort of mock-sleazy jokes like, “I thought I was your Italian hero.” I was the only one who ever made Giuseppe Garibaldi references. No one ever got it.

Oh, and furthermore, heroes are called “grinders” in Connecticut apparently. That’s b.s. They’re heroes. We’ve been through this before.

What it looks like:

How it tastes: Good. Good enough to be among eight places featured on a show about the best sandwiches in the country? Probably not. But then, really only one of the places on the show that I’ve been to — Primanti Bros. in Pittsburgh — seems worthy of that honor.

The highlights of the sandwich are the soft, fresh bread and the “Classic Mix.” The bread tastes great — just a little sweetness to go with all the savory flavors inside the sandwich — plus is the perfect consistency to contain all the meats and cheeses. It didn’t, incidentally — there’s a lot of stuff on there, so you’ve got little hope that it won’t turn into a sloppy mess. But the bread made a noble effort to keep everything together, and I can’t really think of any bread that would do a better job.

The Classic Mix, which is actually trademarked, is a bunch of peppers, cucumbers, onions, and who knows what else marinated in something vaguely pickly. Mixed into a big gooey glob with the mayo and hot sauce, it gave the effect of a crunchier, heartier cole slaw with a little heat. It was good, a worthy condiment.

The actual bulk of the sandwich, though, left something to be desired. People on the Internet raving about Nardelli’s write about how much better their meat is than Subway’s or Quizno’s, and that’s undoubtedly true. But I don’t think it would hold up in quality to what you could get at an A&S or a good Italian deli around the five boroughs. It was tasty, no doubt, but greasy — and yeah, I know salami is supposed to be greasy — and left me, long after I had finished, just a tiny bit queasy. Still, it was certainly more enjoyable than not to eat — a nice melange of peppery meat flavors.

And one more quibble — and this could easily be a small-sample size hiccup — one half of my sandwich had nearly all the meat. You can’t see it from the picture, but the meat on the side facing the camera tapered off quickly, and by the outer edge of the sandwich it was nearly entirely bread and veggie goop. It still tasted good, of course, but the sandwich’s maker did not evenly distribute the elements of the sandwich, a personal pet peeve.

In all, the Italian Combo from Nardelli’s sort of reminded me of the very best of the six-foot Italian combo heroes we’d get for football dinners and such in high school. I’m not even sure I can explain why. It was good, but inevitably messy and uneven.

What it’s worth: I got the half-grinder because I also wanted to try their chicken parm (which proved unspectacular) and figured I could handle a full grinder, so I’d get two halves and call it a day. Turns out two half-grinders were too much food for me; there’s a lot of meat here. And price was right: The half-grinder would be more than an adequate lunch, and cost less than $5.

The rating: 82 out of 100.

Here is a photo of Mo Vaughn with a giant sandwich

I’ve got meetings today. You’ve got Mo Vaughn with a giant sandwich:

Hat tip to Tino, who asks me if I could ever take on the challenge of reviewing something like the “Mo-Licious” seen here. The answer: I could try and at some point I probably will, but no chance I could eat that whole thing. Because I love food, I shy away from eating challenges that reward volume. If I ate that whole thing, I wouldn’t enjoy lunchmeat for a long time. And that would suck.

I did once win a lemon-eating contest, but that’s obviously a different skill. Actually, the attribute that won the challenge (and Amazon.com gift certificate) for me was my deftness in peeling citrus fruits.

Apparently Carlos Beltran owns a restaurant

The Mets have been using their @NewYorkMets Twitter account to have players answer questions from fans, which is awesome. Carlos Beltran participated today, and this was the most interesting interaction:

My favorite restaurant is Sofrito on E 57th. I am a part owner. The food is delicious. RT @rhongolf Carlos , Where do you like to eat?

As a fan of Carlos Beltran and food, I was surprised I hadn’t heard of this. Turns out there was a N.Y. Post item about it in August, and to Beltran’s credit, the Post wrote that he bought a share of the restaurant because he liked it so much. So he’s probably not just shilling for the place he owns in the above Tweet.

Sofrito is on the extreme East side of Manhattan, between 1st ave. and Sutton. The good gets pretty good reviews on MenuPages. Anyone ever been?